I've just got one of these (4L) through my local Freegle (previously known as freecycle), without any instructions.
It looks like the extraction tube is windscreen washer quality.
Can it take hot engine oil? Hot oil will probably suck quicker.
Any other advice on using these? Please, no more discussion on pros and cons of dropping sump plug.
Now I've got my bus pass I think I can be excused unnecessary grovelling around under both daughter's cars.
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I've got something very similar - not Silverline but it looks the same, chinese made and bought 25 quid from a ship's chandlers shop.
I warm up my car as per a normal oil change.
Insert the tube gently and you will "feel" when it hits the base of the sump pan.
I find you need a good 20 pumps - and then keep pumping form time to time, takes about 15 minutes to suck it all out (and it does suck it all out) but you need to be patient and lift the tube every now and again and if you can't hear the sucking noise keep pumping
Sure beats grovelling underneath as you say
J
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Hot sump oil is typically 80-90 Centigrade - the tube can handle it no problem.
There devices are generally best used with warm oil, as cold you could be waiting an hour to drain the sump.
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The pipe on my Pela 6000 oil extractor is similar to net curtain wire, (plastic coated spiral). If the pipe has been replaced at some time it may not be heat resistant and collapse under vacuum.
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I have the same Pela. The bit of tube that goes down the 'ole is exactly like bicycle brake cable outer, but the rest of it is clear plastic so you can see the oil going through. It works fine with hot oil.
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Brake cable outer is a better description, the OP said his pipe is "windscreen washer quality", hardly heat resistant.
Last edited by: Old Navy on Sun 9 May 10 at 20:54
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I tried to use it, neither of the pipes supplied was small enough diameter to fit down the dipstick tube.;>(
I can't access the oil filter from above so had to grovel about underneath anyway and there's the sump plug...................
I'll have to buy a new sump plug washer. I've said that after the last three oil changes.
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I've seen something similar in a ships' chandlers.
It was obvious to me the pipe was too thick for any dipstick tube I've ever seen, although I don't doubt it will handle hot engine oil.
Is the tube on a Pela extractor definitely thin enough to go down the dipstick of the CC3?
I can't find a shop which has a Pela in stock, and I'm a bit reluctant to buy one 'sight unseeen'.
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Here's the tube on my badge engineered Pela 6000 from Screwfix, on a 50p for size comparison purposes, as mentioned previously like net curtain wire only a bit thicker:-
tinypic.com/r/2ah9ncz/5
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Just to add to the info. Been out to the workshop and the black suction tube on my excellent Pela 600 is 5.65mm dia.
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The tubes supplied with the Silverline are 8mm and 5mm outside diameter. They look like windscreen washer pipe and are curled in the box - they won't straighten out. Not a brilliant design as you don't know where they go in the sump.
Net curtain wire, or bike brake cable outer. I must have some somewhere. Time to rootle around in the loft and shed I think.
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...Here's the tube on my badge engineered Pela 6000 from Screwfix, on a 50p for size comparison purposes...
Spamcan,
I think you must win the award for the most helpful post this week, let alone today.
The pic gives me a very good indication.
I will be at the caravan tomorrow, kitchen roll, 50p and dipstick in hand, netbook balanced on the engine cover of the CC3. :)
Couldn't find an oil extractor last time I looked on the Screwfix website, but I might have searched for just 'Pela', rather than look for a badge-engineered extractor, so I will have another go.
Thanks again.
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>> ...Here's the tube on my badge engineered Pela 6000 from Screwfix, on a 50p for
>> size comparison purposes...
>>
>> Spamcan,
>>
>> I think you must win the award for the most helpful post this week, let
>> alone today.
>>
>> The pic gives me a very good indication.
>>
Thanks, .. I think just measuring the diameter with my calipers would've been easier ;-)
Anyway, this is the Screwfix one:-
www.screwfix.com/prods/21663/Van-Car-Accessories/Mechanics-Tools/Laser-Fluid-Extractor
and this is a Pela 6000:-
www.seamarknunn.com/acatalog/SumpPumpsOilChangers.html
Last edited by: spamcan61 on Fri 14 May 10 at 18:23
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why would you pay 31 quid for an extractor you have to pump, when you can buy the electric one for 24 quid?
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Hugely better made - you dont actually pump while it sucks - it's more like a garden sprayer - give it 10-12 pumps then it is good to go.
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yes but you use it once a year maybe, how much better made does it need to be.
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>>yes but you use it once a year maybe
I wish!
Two family cars, mine and SWMBOs.
Two daughters, each with their own car and boyfriend/husband's.
That's without mates/hangers-on and in-laws etc.
I've got a bus-pass, shouldn't others be looking after me?
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Sometimes the very fact something is better made is worth it - ever used a crappy footpump that feels like it will die if you press it too hard - might only use it once every few years but I'd happily splash a few extra quid for the one that I know won't pack in.
Drifting off topic, I have a plastic Halfords footpump from the 1980s that has had a huge amount of use over the years and very little wear - you simply cannot find them any more because (I suspect) they turned out to be much more durable than the makers hoped, meaning little extra sales.
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Got my Pela from mailspeedmarine.com if you sign up to their VIP club you get a £10 voucher to spend straight away on your first purchase!
www.mailspeedmarine.com/tools-repair-kits-fixings/pela/oil-extractor-pump1004535.bhtml
Postage was about a fiver when I got it a couple of months ago.
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I'm now the owner of the extractor in the Screwfix link above, which is a rebadged Pela by the look of it.
Not the cheapest at £41.99, but at least I've got my hands on it - couldn't be bothered with mail order because I'm sure not to be in when the delivery driver arrives.
Also bought 5ltrs of 5W-30 from Halfords for £24.99, which meets the relevant spec in the CC3's handbook.
The oil included a 'free' set of their professional screwdrivers, which I don't really need, but might come in handy.
I've decided an oil-only intermediate change will do, not least because the capacity is listed as 5lltrs 'without filter', so I won't have enough to do an oil and filter change.
The job looks straightforward, but any tips before I start pumpin' and suckin' would be gratefully received.
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>> The job looks straightforward, but any tips before I start pumping' and sucking' would be
>> gratefully received.
>>
Get the oil good and hot, and give the engine about 10 minutes for the oil to drain into the sump. Arm yourself with a cup of tea / coffee, and a seat. Near the end of the extraction, when the pipe gurgles, give it a couple of minutes before a quick pump of the extractor to remove the dregs. Don't make the tea / coffee too hot, it wont take long!
Last edited by: Old Navy on Sat 15 May 10 at 19:21
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>>I tried to use it, neither of the pipes supplied was small enough diameter to fit down the dipstick tube<<
Well at least you`ll now be able to use it to pump-out your Water-meter hole!! - so it wont be wasted! ;-)
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>>
>> Any other advice on using these? Please, no more discussion on pros and cons of
>> dropping sump plug.
>>
>> Now I've got my bus pass I think I can be excused unnecessary grovelling around
>> under both daughter's cars.
>>
Look at another way; it's not grovelling, it's an excuse for a lie down.
Sorry.
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Oil change the easy proper way.
Nose car over the end of our flat parking area with front wheels on the very edge...lawn 2 ft below, kneel on grass under front of overhanging car.
Put drain can under sump, reach up to sump press and turn Fumoto oil drain valve to open.
Remove filter and refit new one.
Drink tea and dunk biscuits whilst oil drains fully into can, reach up turn drain valve which clicks it back into locked position.
Refill with Millers oil.
Job done.
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...press and turn Fumoto oil drain valve to open...
No one likes a show-off. :)
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How do the main dealers do it do they suck through the dipstick tube or up through the cam cover?
Nice bit of kit in all those link photo's me i do it the old way but can see the point of not laying on the floor!
Ideal on a wet day if filter is easy to get at.
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Assuming that the tube is PVC, the maximum working temperature is 60C. www.harvel.com/tech-specs-pvc-pipe-80.asp
Last edited by: L'escargot on Sun 16 May 10 at 07:40
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On both our Citroens the oil filter is changed from the top anyway (as with many other cars) so the proper easy way is to use a vacuum device that you know gets to the very bottom of the sump and removes every drop.
One point not mentioned with the vacuum extractors is you're not left with a a mucky oil drain pan slopping 5l of oil about. You can take the vacuum container straight to the tip.
Last edited by: Fenlander on Sun 16 May 10 at 08:34
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On the lancer, the filter is underneath, about a foot away from the sump plug. Its groveling underneath what ever way you look at it. Easy enough tho.
On the last dealer service there is an cost item for sump plug washer, so I *assume* the dealer drained it. Also when I did the last oil change, the parts guy didnt look at me like I was braindead when I asked for a sump plug washer..
Last edited by: Zero on Sun 16 May 10 at 10:06
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We didn't replace sump washers unless it was a fabric one that was falling apart.
Oil filter 'o' rings every time, but rarely sump washers.
A wipe to make sure all the sealing surfaces were free of swarf did the job.
Used to clean the plug threads as well.
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I never used to, but at 69 pence you might as well do it.
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...but at 69 pence you might as well do it...
Agreed, apart from anything else, sorting a leak is harder without a ramp and workshop facilities.
While it might not be too hard rolling around under the car, you only want to do it once per oil change.
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I did an oil change on the mower yesterday with an oil extractor bought for a tenner, not the last word in build quality but much easier than trying to drain the oil from the bottom of the mower. I cut the grass and waited 30 minutes for the oil to cool down a bit before using it, as I had visions of the extractor melting in my hands from the hot oil!
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>> I never used to, but at 69 pence you might as well do it.
>>
Focus sump plug washer is not available - new sump plug each time.
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Just changed the oil using my Screwfix extractor and all went well.
It needed a good prod to get the pipe in for the last inch or so, but I was brave and it went in - and out - much easier after it had been dunked in the sump oil.
The extractor took out just more than 5ltrs, which is the capacity according to the handbook.
I've not bothered with the filter on the basis this is an extra intermediate change, over and above the service schedule.
Worth doing, I think, It has always seemed to me optimistic to ask the oil in a turbo diesel to last 12,500m.
Fired her up for a minute and did a re-dip - spot on max, although my nice clean oil was already going grey/black.
Decanted old oil into empty container for new and cleaned the extractor with hot soapy water - currently drying in the sun on the caravan deck prior to going back in its box.
Now, where am I going to put it until I need it again in a year's time? :)
Last edited by: ifithelps on Sun 16 May 10 at 14:06
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www.coopersofstortford.co.uk/coopers-of-stortford-oil-extractor-pump-prodst09032i/
6L version - £20 ( plus £5 p & p ?) but out of stock at present.
1.5L version - £8
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Viewing this thread with some interest although I'm a drain and filter every time man.
Working round the back of my garage tuther day I noticed that the oil tank filler cap (approx 9" diameter) was not on its corresponding hole but sat adjacent to.
Worst case scenario is that its been off since the top up in autumn and has allowed snow rain in for several months. There is a possibility that someone has been trying to get at the oil but I'm fairly secure and it would be difficult.
Anyway the plastic 1250 ltr tank is tipped slightly down from the outlet so I'm planning some way of reaching the lowest end of the tank which cannot be accessed from above and syphoning off any water accumulation which would have settled at the lowest point.
I'm thinking in terms of some thin copper micro bore pipe as it has to be rigid enough but flexible enough to put through the top opening and then turn to put diagonally across the tank. Then some sort of pump/ syphon to get the flow going.
There is no drain off plug and I've looked at something that looks like a large absorbent sausage which you lower and leave in the bottom of the tank, but they are over £40 a pop.
It may be that there is not as much water in there as I am imagining. Any creative ideas - other than change to gas, gratefully received.
Last edited by: Fullchat on Sat 17 Mar 12 at 11:52
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If it were me I would dip it , or possibly an inspection mirror to see if you can spot water ont he top.
I would try and wick it out with old towels.
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Here goes FC, and the best of luck.
You need 1/2" bore pipe to suit those primer pumps from Screwfix, about a tenner, possibly cheaper version available, very simple just a rubber bellows with a 1/2" fitting either side and hopefully with a one way valv, though a one way valve isn't necessary as you can use your finger over the other end whilst sucking.
You'll need some garden hose to fit both end of the pump, and long enough to reach down to the receiving can.
The most important thing is to have a length of stiff plastic (or copper water pipe?) pipe a tight fit inside the suction side of the garden hose, must be stiff so you can measure the length needed and can control the direction, something a flexible pipe will be no good for.
It doesn't need to be 1/2" if you could fathom something smaller bore that might be better, maybe the small bore (thats me) you mention with screenwash pipe on the end and suck through, with clear pipe you can see it coming in good time..
You can or could buy syphon tools from accessory shops or DIY shops...maybe used for syphoning cisterns), cheap plastic version of what i have described and simply extend the pick up pipe, but i'm not sure they will enough suck to get the water out from the depth of the tank you have.
Another thought, do you have an old wet or dry vacuum cleaner?...again with a bit of ingenuity you could adapt the pipe sizes down to half inch to get to the bottom of you tank, the only problem with this is that you won;t be ablt actuially see what is being sucked out like you would with syphoning.
Bit of a long winded description, sorry.
edit...''If it were me I would dip it , or possibly an inspection mirror to see if you can spot water ont he top.
I would try and wick it out with old towels''
water will be at the bottom.
Last edited by: gordonbennet on Sat 17 Mar 12 at 12:20
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I though water floated on he top? have i got that AAF?
On second thoughts you are right
Stupid suggestion then
Last edited by: Zero on Sat 17 Mar 12 at 12:21
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>>Anyway the plastic 1250 ltr tank is tipped slightly down from the outlet <<
As the Oil is probably on top of the Water, could you not tilt the tank toward the outlet (car-jack?) and then drain the water out of the outlet and shut it off when the Oil appears~?
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Even if it's been off a couple of months I'd guess less than a couple of litres of rain (and a few dead animals) could have got in.
Surely there's a few litres in the sump of the tank that can't be accessed by the fuel pump for just such contamination?
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>> Even if it's been off a couple of months I'd guess less than a couple
>> of litres of rain (and a few dead animals) could have got in.
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>> Surely there's a few litres in the sump of the tank that can't be accessed
>> by the fuel pump for just such contamination?
Trouble is, water & diesel & rotting animals = fungal growth = blockage.
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You can buy water detection paste that will detect the presence of water in your tank. Rub some on a nice clean bit of pole or rod and dip the tank. It will turn red if there is water at the bottom. Measure it and calculate volume using Length x width x height for a rectangular tank, or Pie x Rsquared x Height for a cylinder. Then, as above, pump out with Vax or syphon pump into a clean container until roughly the same volume, then you know you're done.
Alternatively, wait until the tank is nearly empty =150 litres or so.. Buy 2 dustbins for a tenner or so this will give you 200 litres of volume, , syphon your oil into them until emulsion/water comes through, put to waste, and syphon your oil back in. Screwfix do cheap barrel pumps which will do the job.
Bit of hassle but not too bad, dip the tank first to see if you have a problem or not. A small amount of water in the base isn't going to hurt, it's only like a diesel filter with a bit of water in the bottom.
Baz
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I'd be inclined to leave it alone but - make sure the oil level doesn't drop below 2 on the Watchman.
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Thanks lots of good advice.
Bit of a result. Have just put a level on the tank and its infact leaning towards the outlet so deepest water will be directly below the filler hole which is about an 1" above the base of the tank. Water detection paste - good idea to see the scale of the issue if any. I appreciate there will always be some. Plenty of experience in water detection in Jet A 1 fuel for helicopters. Real pain in the bum but some self interest if you are actually flying in the aircraft.
The Silverline vacuum pump looks a possibility if it will handle kerosene and then decant into a jerrican for disposal. Then there is the issue of disposal unless I can hide it in some waste oil.
Bonus being I have the pump for lawnmowers etc. Anyone who has the pump know the length of extraction tube?
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>> Bonus being I have the pump for lawnmowers etc. Anyone who has the pump know
>> the length of extraction tube?
>>
The extraction hose on my Pela 6000 is 2 metres long if that helps.
Last edited by: Rolling roadblock. on Mon 19 Mar 12 at 08:18
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Thanks. 2M, that would easily hit the bottom of the oil tank.
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Most tips take waste sump oil.
I doubt they will be bothered if it's contaminated kerosene, although that may be more of a fire risk.
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Siverline oil extractor - Jacks
