Just got back from a fortnight on Sicily - a great experience all round. Flew to Palermo, hired a car from Avis, pre-paid (autumn sale discount). Got a Fiat 500 - fine for the two of us - and was very impressed. It seemed a much bigger car than it actually is, not in terms of its dimensions, but in its general feel of solidity and its handling. All controls were positive and responsive and while I imagine the engine was small, it attacked mountain roads with gusto.
We were warned about the traffic in the centre of Palermo itself and, having got there by train one day, observed it at first hand. It is truly appalling in terms of sheer density and muddle. However, crossing the street, though requiring some nerve, was entirely possible if you waited until everything seized up a bit and then boldly stepped out - cars would actually wait for you. There's remarkably little road-rage or even real annoyance with other drivers - everyone seems to expect delays and just hoots a bit when they feel like it, without any real malice.
Driving in the outskirts was a bit disconcerting; roads vary in width and often have no clear centre line or lane markings, so you can suddenly find yourself surrounded by other traffic and need to avoid abrupt changes of direction. Any cars that are not pretty new seem invariably to be bashed up and neglected.
On open roads there seem to be two distinct sorts of driver: the outrageous mimser, often elderly, often driving something small, going at 50 kph or less, and the racer, travelling at hair-raising speed. The moderate driver (as I aimed to be) was in a definite minority.
Road surfaces inland were often extremely poor and there was a real risk of damage to tyres and/or suspension. Motorways were better but not up to a really good standard.
One excursion we did to the foothills of Etna (from Cefalu, where we were based) involved a 50 - 60 km stretch of motorway which included 39 tunnels, some of which were over 2 km long, though others were extremely short.
It was a lovely holiday. Warm weather, fascinating places, nice people, tasty food and decent coffee. What more could anyone want?
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I could imagine living in Sicily and owning a Fiat 500. (Abarth of course !)
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In the Puglia many years ago, saw a rich and sleek-looking, very well-dressed priest getting out of a new Alfa Giulietta.
My first thought was: 'If he's chaste I'm a Dutchman.' It's their own fault for making such a to-do about sex.
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Yup done that, in a Fiat 500 too, did the 180km schlep from palermo airport to Taormina. Luckily the one I hired was black, didnt show the ash when Etna burped all over it.
I wasnt the outrageous mimser.
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Driving on Sicily - Runfer D'Hills
