We bought this March 2011 I30 back in August last year with under 34000 miles. Purchase price was £8100.
It’s the 1.6 CRDi in Comfort spec. A middle of the range model. Just a brief review for now as I don’t drive it that much, It’s my wifes.
I find it surprisingly perky for a 1.6 and only 113bhp, fast enough for a small family hatch. It has an annoying display though that tells you to change up just as it’s hitting the sweet spot – easily (and often) ignored! Maybe that’s why the MPG seems to be averaging out 50 which is lower than it’s claimed urban – not fantastic when a lot of the miles are on the motorway and it’s a six speed.
Inside is what I’d call functional, smart enough but nothing special. Leather wheel (that was something that bugged me about the Golfs we looked at – plastic steering wheels!), air con, cooled glove box, and a few storage bits. No cruise though. The iPod integration and control with the factory radio works well.
The seats are pretty firm and have decent adjustment, I would like it to go a little lower though, I always feel a bit like I’m sitting on it rather than in it. Given the choice, I’d take my pug on longer journeys (but I like a bigger car feel and having driven that for nearly 100k now, maybe it’s just grown on me like a favourite armchair?)
Overall, pretty roomy inside. The finish is wearing well at 39k but the fit is another matter.
It went into Hyundai just before Christmas for a buzzing/rattle (sounded like the dash but was the rear view mirror, common problem) and a rattle from the back. They confirmed mirror to be replaced but couldn’t hear anything from the back – I’ve since narrowed it down to the parcel shelf, will have a play about with some foam or something and see what I can do.
It went back in today to get the mirror fitted. Last week it cut out twice when driving and you have to give an extra push down on the handbrake leaver to get the warning light off. I mention these when handing over.
So, mirror fitted FOC, of course.
But they tell me brakes are 90% worn and this is why the leaver wont fully seat to extinguish the light. Quoted £297.82 for front pads and discs and another £183.60 for the rear.
Cutting out is fuel filter (again, common problem I think), the remedy is a new filter at £74.71 and fuel treatment for £16.80
TOTAL £572.93. hahaha… I don’t think so. Will be calling around for some part costs in the morning.
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I sometimes wonder if cars are going further down the 'cheap to buy, but spares cost a fortune' route - like cheap inkjet printers, but expensive replacement ink cartridges.
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>> We bought this March 2011 I30 back in August last year with under 34000 miles.
>>
>> TOTAL £572.93. hahaha… I don’t think so. Will be calling around for some part costs
>> in the morning.
You won't need those disks either.
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If the i30 is anything like my Ceed (The same car mechanically) the handbrake is a totally different system from the disk brakes and and is a drum brake which operates on the inside of the "Top hat" section of the rear disks. It rarely wears as it is only used when the car is stationary and usually only needs adjustment. Brake pads are about £30 ish from ECP. The disks should only need replacement if the pads have completely worn out and damaged the disks.
Last edited by: Uncle Albert on Fri 10 Jan 14 at 10:12
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Missed the EDIT -
If the handbrake light is not going off unless the lever is pressed down, it is the switch under the lever that needs adjustment.
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What a ghastly attempt to gain workshop income on a fairly new car... with a very iffy justification related to the handbrake light too.
Seems they're all at it though.
In Jan 2010 my cousin wanted a modest, reliable & economical new car to last 10yrs so bought the base model Octavia with flat paint and a 1.6Tdi engine. Been a great car for their needs and cheap to run... until the first service out of warranty a few weeks ago.
The main dealer was looking to add on timing belt, suspension bushes, shock absorbers and other items to bring the bill up to £1100.
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Timing belts have a 4 year interval on that 1.6 VAG TDi. 2010-2014 is 4 years.
I hate timing belts. Have I ever mentioned that?
;-)
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And there's the rub... when buying the car a feature was that it had a new design of Conti belt that was designed to last the average life of the car. In their service book it says the belt change is at 300,000km with no time interval specified.
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Hmm. Opinion seems divided on the matter....
www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/156665-16-cr-cambelt-intervals/
Anyway, I prefer to remove all doubt these days by avoiding the wretched things.
Last edited by: Alanović on Fri 10 Jan 14 at 11:27
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Not really divided actually. There is no time interval given in any official document/service book. The shortest mileage interval seen is in a Fabia service book at 130,000mls. It remains that Cousin's car has the service book with a 300,000km/no time limit interval and Skoda are unable to show why they would wish to do the belt at 35k/4yrs.
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Would you leave a cambelt, any cambelt, 300,000km? Especially one which is in a relatively new engine with no back story? I wouldn't. Handbook or not. Manufacturers' recommendations are liable to change after handbooks are published, depending on performance in the real world. Opinion is divided.
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>> Would you leave a cambelt, any cambelt, 300,000km? Especially one which is in a relatively
>> new engine with no back story? I wouldn't. Handbook or not.
I reckon you're missing the point. The "new engine without back story" is likely to have an as-yet-unidentified problem that has nothing to do with the cambelt.
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That's simply another point I wasn't trying to address. Not really missing the point when the point in question is evils cambeltses.
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>> That's simply another point I wasn't trying to address. Not really missing the point when
>> the point in question is evils cambeltses.
>>
Surely the argument is that this is marketed as a non-evil cambelt.
Of course, when they start snapping at 150k, you'll be recommended to pay to change it, rather than being given a replacement. But early (04/05/06) Accord 2.2Ds have all required their chains changing at about 110-120k.
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Marketed being the operative word. There's not much proper evidence yet to support the longevity claims.
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>> >> Would you leave a cambelt, any cambelt, 300,000km? Especially one which is in a
>> relatively
>> >> new engine with no back story? I wouldn't. Handbook or not.
>>
>> I reckon you're missing the point. The "new engine without back story" is likely to
>> have an as-yet-unidentified problem that has nothing to do with the cambelt.
>>
Too true
The cambelt may very last 300,000 kms.
Most idlers need replacing before 120,000kms
And the cambelt often drives the waterpump - or access to teh pump is after remving the cambelt. Most waterpumps last 120,000kms.
So why have a long lasted cambelt mated to components which by their nature are unlikely last half that time?
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No of course 200,000mls is a little extreme. However there is a consensus on that thread that no-one has seen anything in writing that there is a time interval on these engines. There is also no-one who has seen a shorter mileage interval than around 130,000mls.
I fully appreciate a time interval related to average yearly mileage when a belt interval might be 48k or 4yrs. However to say a belt will last 200,000 mls but only 4yrs is a very imbalanced schedule.
It's a pretty poor show that Skoda are unable to produce a tech update sheet to show what any revised interval is if queried by a customer.
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>>Haywain “I sometimes wonder if cars are going further down the 'cheap to buy, but spares cost a fortune' route - like cheap inkjet printers, but expensive replacement ink cartridges.”
I think it’s just authorised dealers in general going (gone) down this route regardless of initial car value? Although I do think far eastern makes are probably dearer for parts.
>>Zero “You won't need those disks either.”
Possibly – looking at the discs (disks?) through the wheels they look fine, maybe a 1mm lip on all. I’ll take the wheels off later for a proper look, but I don’t know what thickness would be acceptable?
>>Uncle Albert “If the handbrake light is not going off unless the lever is pressed down, it is the switch under the lever that needs adjustment.”
That was my initial thought – a switch problem at the lever.
Anyway, Ive striiped the labour costs and the Fuel treatment from their quote and it leaves £251.93 for the discs/pads and filter.
Cheapest I can find online (although just a very quick search so far) for Genuine Hyundai parts is around £298 for the above (Pads £76, Discs £204, Filter £18)
I can get everything on ebay for around £108 (I wouldn’t go this route though) or Euro Car Parts comes in at just under £180 for Pagid Discs/Pads and OE quality? Filter.
What’s the warranty situation – I need to buy Hyundai parts and have a VAT registered garage fit them?
Ideal situation would be I buy the Genuine Hyundai Pads and Filter (around £94) and fit myself. – Would Discs need ‘skimmed’ if I done that?
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Have a look at my experience on this thread:
www.car4play.com/forum/post/index.htm?t=13884
No warranty issues.
Keep an eye on ECP as they regularly have good discounts. I think the i30 has the same components as the Ceed.
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>> Cheapest I can find online (although just a very quick search so far) for Genuine
>> Hyundai parts is around £298 for the above (Pads £76, Discs £204, Filter £18)
>>
>> I can get everything on ebay for around £108 (I wouldn’t go this route though)
>> or Euro Car Parts comes in at just under £180 for Pagid Discs/Pads and OE
>> quality? Filter.
Pagid disk and pads are good, as good as the OEM fitted new - I have used them on the lancer, excellent quality. As for warranty don't worry, there is no warranty on brakes - they are classed as service items.
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>> Pagid disk and pads are good, as good as the OEM fitted new - I
>> have used them on the lancer, excellent quality. As for warranty don't worry, there is
>> no warranty on brakes - they are classed as service items.
>>
I think I'll just go with the pads from Euro Car Parts and buy a genuine fuel filter. Nowt wrong with the discs as far as I can tell and I'll need to speak to them again re: the warning light/handbrake.
My pug has the same handbrake set-up (Shoes inside the drum part of disk) and AFAIK these are not really a service item and should last a very long time.
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ToMoCo if you have 15" wheels you should have 280mm dia discs which are allower to wear down to 24.4mm thickness. If you have 16" wheels you should have 300mm discs which can wear down to 26mm.
The rear discs are the same for both wheel sizes and can wear to 8.4mm.
Unless you drive like a hooligan my guess is only front pads will be needed but I would take the rears out to ensure they can move freely then Copaslip as appropriate before refitting.
Just have a look round the base of the handbrake and you may find the warning light switch is on a flimsy bracket which can be bent up to get the light to go off properly.
I'd use genuine pads and if anything is mentioned at the next service just look baffled just say they must have measured them wrong previously.
Last edited by: Fenlander on Fri 10 Jan 14 at 14:51
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Thanks for the figures Fenlander.
It has 16" wheels.
Will be going into them come end March for it's 3rd year oil service
Last edited by: ToMoCo on Fri 10 Jan 14 at 14:56
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"Cutting out is fuel filter (again, common problem I think), the remedy is a new filter at £74.71 and fuel treatment for £16.80"
Ah, the fuel treatment. So is that £16.80 for a bottle of Miller's? (Available elsewhere for around a tenner.) Should work wonders, of course.
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I have mentioned this before but Fiat tried to almost get £450 out of me for an oil change, two brake pads and a tyre. They quoted £160 for the pads and £80 for a cheap ditch finder. 3000 miles later the said tyre still has 3.5mm tread on it, and I reckon I will get another 1000-2000 miles or so out of it before it I should replace it.
My indie did the break pads for £40 including labour, but I gave him a £5 tip so £45.00
I won't be going near a main dealer when my car needs a service in April!.
I know my FIAT won't be a major issue with spares as the Panda is very common and most the mechanics are robbed from the Punto MK2 anyway. The i10 though is another matter and I suspect spares will be very expensive.
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>>They quoted £160 for the pads and £80 for a cheap ditch finder. <<
£80 isnt cheap for a tyre that size, it is stupidly expensive, I only paid £65 for a Pirelli on my Charade which had similar sized wheels but you could get budgets for £35 - THAT is the price of a cheap ditch finder. Actually the Landsail ditch finders on my Hyundai are only £40 odd quid so if someone quoted you £80 for rubbish tyres you must look really vunerable to the service manager :-)
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He was simply trying his luck but the worse thing is there wasn't anything wrong with the tyre at all, it just had less than 4mm tread and that was their reason for advising me to change it.
Considering the legal limit is 1.6mm I am more than happy to wait for them to get down to 3mm before I change them.
And yep a Pirelli is about £45-£50 on my car. The ditchfinders are only like £5 cheaper.
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OK, something not right, first the dodgy story about the handbrake light, and I know this isn't exactly scientific (I've not had the wheels off yet - too miserable - will do it on Sunday when I can get the car inside), but just looking through the wheels, I can see a good 8-10mm left of the 'meaty' part of the pads - does that really tie up with 90% worn?
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No but do have a look on the inside of the disc and the inside pads. If all the slides and canked up then things start to wear unevenly.
My Ceed had only done 27K and after I had done all the work I couldn't believe the vast improvement in brake performance.
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>> I can see a good 8-10mm left of the 'meaty' part of
>> the pads - does that really tie up with 90% worn?
>>
No, but check the inner pads which you can't see through the wheel. My Ceed is on Pagid brake pads fitted by me. As Zero said, Brakes are a wear item and not covered by the warranty.
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The Lancer pads stick in the calliper slide on the inside, only half the pad works on the disk allowing it to become half pitted with rust.
The pads need to come out annually, the calliper cleaned up, the guide shims cleaned, coppa slipped and replaced to prevent the sticking. If you do it before it happens you don't end up paying for pads and disks.
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The local indy bloke rang up politely the other day to remind us that an MoT was due. I went in today to arrange an appointment for it and he did it on the spot, interrupted by other punters, telling his mate to get on with that Jag, answering the phone and so on so taking about an hour. He put some gunge on the place where the exhaust was blowing at a joint to make the emissions correct, but it has made the jalopy a bit quieter too.
He's got a new device that shakes a car's suspension laterally back and forth. Fortunately the regular clonk I heard when he was doing the front of the car was made by the device, not the car. £53 all told, fairly painless after all.
Of such piffling terrors and despicable joys are the long days of one's declining years composed.
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It's doing alright that Chrysler isn't it? How many miles has it done now?
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just coming up to 100,000. Sound and likeable product, just like my old Plymouth in the US and (really Rootes Group admittedly) Singer Vogue estate.
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>> Snap! :)
>>
:-)
New pads made a huge improvement to my Ceeds braking too.
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Right, just had all the wheels off for a better look.
My first concern (but I'll reserve judgement until hopefully some of you in the know can advise), It was an absolute pig of a job to get the wheels off, starting with a gentle kick top/bottom/left right trying to free the wheel form the hub, nothing. A harder kick worried about actually knocking it off the jack), nothing, Lump hammer and block of wood, nothing. I had to lower the car back on it's own weight to free them. This suggests to me that the wheels haven't been off for a while, but I'm not sure - how long does it take an alloy to 'weld' itself to the hub? can this happen over days?
Next anomaly - I have 16" wheels but 280mm discs - this differs from info further up about 300mm discs, but specs could have changed for the MY I suppose.
Anyway, some measurements.
Front O/S Disc 26mm thick. Outside pad 7mm, Inside 4-5mm
Front N/S Disc 26mm , Outside pad 5mm, inside 5mm
Rear O/S Disc about 9.something mm, Outside pad 5mm, Inside 4-5mm
Rear N/S Disc 9mm, outside pad 9mm, Inside 5-6mm.
Seems to be a difference on the wear at the rear, but still not exactly 90% worn and 'Safety Critical' was how they put it?
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>> weight to free them. This suggests to me that the wheels haven't been off for
>> a while, but I'm not sure - how long does it take an alloy to
>> 'weld' itself to the hub? can this happen over days?
No. Happens over a period of many months. Hope you cleaned them up, and I lubricate (coppaslip) the hub/wheel interface.
>> Next anomaly - I have 16" wheels but 280mm discs - this differs from info
>> further up about 300mm discs, but specs could have changed for the MY I suppose.
That info was not gospel so not an anomaly. Specs vary all the time.
>> Anyway, some measurements.
>>
>> Front O/S Disc 26mm thick. Outside pad 7mm, Inside 4-5mm
>>
>> Front N/S Disc 26mm , Outside pad 5mm, inside 5mm
>>
>> Rear O/S Disc about 9.something mm, Outside pad 5mm, Inside 4-5mm
>>
>> Rear N/S Disc 9mm, outside pad 9mm, Inside 5-6mm.
>>
>> Seems to be a difference on the wear at the rear, but still not exactly
>> 90% worn and 'Safety Critical' was how they put it?
sounds like you have some slightly sticky pads - take them out, clean and coppaslip the sliding interface. or change and clean / coppaslip the sliding interfaces.
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>> sounds like you have some slightly sticky pads - take them out, clean and coppaslip the sliding interface. or change and clean / coppaslip the sliding interfaces. >>
Cleaning and lubing is a good idea but DO NOT USE coppaslip.
Instead, use proper brake grease.
Coppaslip will swell the rubber components, causing more problems in the future.
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>> >> sounds like you have some slightly sticky pads - take them out, clean and
>> coppaslip the sliding interface. or change and clean / coppaslip the sliding interfaces. >>
>>
>> Cleaning and lubing is a good idea but DO NOT USE coppaslip.
>>
>> Instead, use proper brake grease.
>> Coppaslip will swell the rubber components, causing more problems in the future.
Been using to for three years - no problem. But thats probably because there are no rubber parts in my brakes - Neoprene.
Last edited by: Zero on Sun 12 Jan 14 at 12:13
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I changed the front disks/pads, rear pads and all sliding surfaces on my 2008 Ceed at 75K.
I was getting wobble front the front and intermittent grinding.
There was still a fair bit of meat left on all the pads. Most of my 20K a year is on moving motorways.
Sourced from Brakes International. I have since covered 5K with no problems
Pads around £25/Axle and Fitting Kit £8/Axle for the Ceed/I30
Straight forward job
www.youtube.com/watch?v=T4JYuK7w_fM
Kia dealer had been trying to sell me disks/pads for the 2 previous years. Similar price as Hyundai have quoted ToMoCo
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I had the 1600 petrol version, a lot of car for the money and very good apart from limited rear vision, small boot (or "luggage room" according to the handbook) for the size of the car and a passenger vanity mirror which can easily be closed with the light still on (hence a flat battery - why are these interior lights not disabled as soon as the ignition is switched off?). I heeded the warning in the handbook that the cold glove box "can spoil your pieces of paper".
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>> Been using to for three years - no problem. But thats probably because there are
>> no rubber parts in my brakes - Neoprene.
>>
That would be it.
But I would still recommend using the correct tools/lubricants for the job in hand...
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>> No. Happens over a period of many months. Hope you cleaned them up, and I
>> lubricate (coppaslip) the hub/wheel interface.
I didn't because I didn't have anything.
I will strip it all down next weekend for a clean up and see what I can do with the handbrake while I have the callipers off.
Tomorrow, a call to the dealer. Think I'll open by asking if they remove the wheels to check the brakes!
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A cousin here ran his three-year-old small Hyundai diesel, i10 or i20, something like that, a very nice quiet economical little motor it was too, bought new with the 7 year warranty in mind, into some deep floodwater getting water rammed up its intake and killing the engine. With the insurance money he has bought a Peugeot some sort of number - 607? - estate, a huge great thing with a 1900cc turbodiesel and 117,000 miles on it. It's a nice clean example and looks nice inside, but I will be following its career with slightly anxious interest.
All our local lanes are open again, no more flooded than usual at this time of year but covered in sort of beach debris. The local authority hasn't taken away the road closed notices yet. In one road closed for good reason until a couple of days ago I saw a small white car that looked as if it had been rolled or cartwheeled at some speed. Must have been going some to manage that in the place where it was lying in the hedge, under water for a couple of weeks.
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Well, not had a chance yet to actually strip the brakes down for cleaning, but I did change the fuel filter. £25 for a Genuine one from Hyundai.
Not the easiest job in the world - took me over an hour, but confident I could do it next time in about 30-40 minutes.
The fuel I got out the old filter definitely had some debris in it, I thought nothing of it assuming that is exactly why the filter is there - but the guys over on the i30 forum seemed a bit more concerned about it - any thoughts?
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>> The fuel I got out the old filter definitely had some debris in it, I thought nothing of it assuming that is exactly why the filter is there - but the guys over on the i30 forum seemed a bit more concerned about it - any thoughts?
>>
Depends on what the debris is... metal fillings? then worry.
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>>the guys over on the i30 forum...
Bet they're an edgy bunch...
;-)
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>> Bet they're an edgy bunch...
>>
>> ;-)
>>
:D
Watch it. I singed up!
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>> >> The fuel I got out the old filter definitely had some debris in it,
>> I thought nothing of it assuming that is exactly why the filter is there -
>> but the guys over on the i30 forum seemed a bit more concerned about it
>> - any thoughts?
>> >>
>>
>> Depends on what the debris is... metal fillings? then worry.
Yeah, it could be nothing - Fuel pumped up from the forecourt tanks can be pretty mucky sometimes, or it could be something more problematical - the cutting out sounds iffy.
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>> Yeah, it could be nothing - Fuel pumped up from the forecourt tanks can be
>> pretty mucky sometimes, or it could be something more problematical - the cutting out sounds
>> iffy.
>>
I've read a few different reports now of problems with filters waxing up/cutting out.
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>> Depends on what the debris is... metal fillings? then worry.
>>
For all intents and purposes, my best description would be 'grit', could possibly have been tink flakes of rust I suppose.
What would metal fillings have been?
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>> >> Depends on what the debris is... metal fillings? then worry.
>> >>
>>
>> For all intents and purposes, my best description would be 'grit', could possibly have been
>> tink flakes of rust I suppose.
>>
>> What would metal fillings have been?
The pump. The grit is probably muck from the tanks.
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Kia Sorentos had an issue with some sort of tank lining parting company and clogging up filters. But more likely just carp in the fuel. Particularly if you have run low and scavenged from the bottom.
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>>some sort of tank lining parting company and clogging up filters.
It's a particular problem with those diesel cars which have been run on comedy fuel obtained from the back door of the local chippy.
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>> The pump. The grit is probably muck from the tanks.
>>
Exactly so, metal filings are normally shiny silver.
Oh no.... Zero and I are in agreement - HELP!!!!!
;-)
Last edited by: VxFan on Sun 26 Jan 14 at 03:42
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£65 on a new tyre yesterday. Spotted a bulge on the sidewall, was less than 50% worn too #annoyed!
Anyway, forgot to update about the brakes.
I remember getting frustrated when working on the 17 year old Mazda that everything was rusted/stuck - this at only a few years old wasn't much better! I suppose that what happens over a few winters though to exposed parts.
Cleaned it all up, and seeing as it's done circa 40k ATM, I estimate a good 10k still left in the brakes. I will however keep a close eye on them.
The handbrake (that I initially asked the dealer to look at, and their solution was new pads/discs all round at over 500 quid!) was fairly simple.
The cable at each end attaches to a little lever going into the drum part of the disc, these were pretty 'gunked' up and not releasing properly. Cleaned/freed these and a little tighten of the cable inside under the centre console and the lever now re-seats properly and the light goes out.
The car will be 3 years old come the end of April and will need MOT'd and serviced. Just disappointing that I won't go anywhere near my nearest Hyundai Dealer (Arnold Clark) ever again.
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Reminds me of my pollen/cabin filter ... fool main dealer service history indeed!
imageshack.com/i/neowqtj
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Ha, was that claimed to be changed and you were charged for a new one?
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Er, no but, you'd think someone in its 6 years of pain dealer servicing would have checked it, apart from me :)
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3 years old and 42.5k up it passed it's MOT, albeit with a few advisories: -
Rear brake discs, both sides - slightly worn but not seriously weakened.
Front suspension Arm (again both sides), deteriorated - not resulting in excessive movement.
Both rear 'trailing arm' rubber bushes slightly deteriorated.
It's back in today for a service at my indy, should have been done yesterday but the parts were late arriving from Hyundai and I needed the car back. I'm hope I don't need to test the warranty situation, but after the last visit to my local authorised dealer, no way are they getting any money out of me for service!
I still don't drive it that much, but I'm liking it more each time. The steering, very light when parking, tightens up nicely at speed.
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My Forester is 7 years old and 70,000m up - passed it's MOT with no advisories.
Just saying ;)
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>> My Forester is 7 years old and 70,000m up - passed it's MOT with no
>> advisories.
>>
>> Just saying ;)
>>
My Toyota is nearly 18 years old and passed with no advisories, if you wanna start waving it about.
:P
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£89 (offer) for the service - should have been the fuel filter on top too, but I told them not to seeing as I changed it just a short while ago.
Total Running costs so far: -
Fuel Filter £25.00
Replace damaged tyre £65
MOT £35
Service £89.00
Total so far for 8 months / 9k - £214.00
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Air Con Dilemma -
SWMBO advises air con not working.
I had a quick look and it seems when I switch the air con off/on there is no change in engine revs that I would expect. Anyway, need to decide if I put it into Hyundai in case it's anything warranty related - but I guess the first thing they will want to do is charge me inflated rates for a re-gas, or just go somewhere like Halfords for a re-gas?
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It's a gamble and for me I'd gamble on Halfords. They sent a mail the other day promoting an aircon service/gas for £44.
Has it ever been done in your time of ownership?
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and I didn't say but Halfords Autocentres do a free aircon check... I'd assumed this meant putting a gauge on it but not 100% sure.
Edit: Just looked and they say this...
We now offer a FREE Air Con Check, to check your refrigerant levels and see if they need to be topped up for optimal performance. If they do need topping up, you can purchase all of the air con essentials from store to recharge at home or, you can book in for our Air Con Recharge service and we can take care of it for you.
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Ahh, thanks Fl, looks like that's the way to go at the moment.
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>> If they do need topping up, you can purchase all of the air con essentials from store to recharge at home
I think our resident AC expert (Dave) calls them the DIY death kit and doesn't recommend them.
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Chances are the condenser is punctured and there is no gas left... not warranty! Have you got a friendly local garage could stick their machine on it and check the pressure? If zero not worth a re-gas, needs to be investigated. You might be able to see the dent / hole in the condenser looking through the grille.
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>> Chances are the condenser is punctured and there is no gas left... not warranty!
Yeah, that's my fear. Don't really know anyone
I'll maybe see if someone in Halfords can check for beer money before spending more
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>> I'll maybe see if someone in Halfords can check for beer money before spending more
Kwik Fit also offer AC recharging, and don't charge anything if the system won't refill.
www.kwik-fit.com/about-air-conditioning.asp
All these 'while u wait' AC places basically have the same type of plug and play machines, so even an untrained chimp could use one.
The only 'problem' is the machine does a vacuum test instead of a pressure test. If you've a leaky rubber seal, then by pulling a vacuum it doesn't always show up a leak because it pulls the seal tight. However if the system was pressure tested then it would be under similar conditions to when it's got refrigerant in it.
Last edited by: VxFan on Fri 8 Aug 14 at 11:03
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FROM ORIGINAL POST IN JANUARY
>> It went back in today to get the mirror fitted. Last week it cut out
>> twice when driving and you have to give an extra push down on the handbrake
>> leaver to get the warning light off. I mention these when handing over.
>>
>> So, mirror fitted FOC, of course.
>> But they tell me brakes are 90% worn and this is why the leaver wont
>> fully seat to extinguish the light. Quoted £297.82 for front pads and discs and another
>> £183.60 for the rear.
>> Cutting out is fuel filter (again, common problem I think), the remedy is a new
>> filter at £74.71 and fuel treatment for £16.80
>>
>> TOTAL £572.93. hahaha! I don't think so. Will be calling around for some part costs
>> in the morning.
>>
So, 11 months and 12000 miles (now on 51k) after Arnold Clark Hyundai tried to charge me over £500 to sort out the handbrake light, the brake were indicator started grinding.
£46 at Euro car parts and I fitted new pads all round yesterday.
Beginning to question how long term this car will be now though! The creaks and rattles are becoming unbearable. Unforgivable in such a newish car and will put me off buying (and recommending) the brand in future.
A shame, because otherwise it's a competent enough small family hatch
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Turns out it wasn't so long term after all. The internal rattles/buzzing was too much to take. Sold.
But anyone else with a Hyundai, watch out for rust - this is at the bottom of the rear hatch window and less than 4 years old!
s1000.photobucket.com/user/Chris1JZ-GTE/media/IMG_0440_zpsuhykhulj.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1
s1000.photobucket.com/user/Chris1JZ-GTE/media/IMG_0441_zpstata0wtu.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
EDIT: A CRV is the replacement - not entirely my thing, but a comfortable motorway cruiser, I'll do a report on it at some point.
Last edited by: ToMoCo on Fri 3 Apr 15 at 14:41
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Hyundai i30 - In for the long term - Haywain
