Help / advice please...
I have to get a car for work.
Diesel and automatic (I would prefer a manual but arthritis in my ankle is making it more difficult to use a clutch).
I'm not a brand snob so would be happy with a Hyundai and their unlimited mileage 5 year warranty appeals (I do 25,000 to 30,000 per year), especially as I have recently had expensive problems with another car over the mileage for the warranty (gearbox oil leak and new turbo).
So do I lease a new Tuscon 1.7TDI DCT SE NAV for about £330 a month for 3 or 4 years (non mantained) or go for something like an I30 1.6 TDI DCT SE NAV for about £12k with about 5,000 miles on the clock and about 4 years of the five year warranty left? I would only keep it for the warranty period or a little more - say 3 years or 3.5 years.
Adding 75,000 miles to it would leave it with very little resale value so the Tuscon will cost £13k over 3 years (3+36) and the i30 will cost about £1k less but I would have to pay for an MOT and road fund which is included with the Tuscon.
Heart says Tuscon, finances say i30 which include an even bigger saving if I keep it for 100,000 miles.
Over to the panel...... :-)
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Why not a Kia which have 7 year warranties? Although I am thinking you've ruled it out due to mileage limit of 100,000.
Can you even lease a Tucson for that price with the miles you intend putting on it?
Last edited by: rtj70 on Tue 10 Jan 17 at 22:24
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>> Why not a Kia which have 7 year warranties? Although I am thinking you've ruled
>> it out due to mileage limit of 100,000.
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The Kia is too expensive as their autos are based on the 2l engine and full auto box and the warranty is limited to 100,000 miles.
>> Can you even lease a Tucson for that price with the miles you intend putting
>> on it?
>>
Astonishingly yes. I have the quote from the dealer.
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I'd tread carefully with regards a Dual Clutch Gearbox for 75-100k miles. Well I would.
Clutches are always deemed wear items. So how is that handled in Hyundai terms? How long do you assume a DSG type box will last for those miles?
But for around 30k per annum mileage many are motorways so you'd hope any gearbox (manual, DSG and TC) would be fine.
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>>Tuscon 1.7TDI DCT SE NAV for about £330 a month for 3 or 4 years (non mantained)
This is very cheap for 75000 in 3 years or 100K in 4 years
£330 / month is more like 10 or 12K per year i.e. 40K or 48K in 3 years!
I think you may have misread the distance limits on PCPs.
Last edited by: Falkirk Bairn on Tue 10 Jan 17 at 22:27
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The clutch went on my Hyundai ix35 after 2 years and Hyundai refused to pay a penny towards it.
So I wouldn't put too much emphasis on thinking your warranty will give you a total safety net.
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Very interesting Bobby. I suppose they are deemed ware items - so what about dual clutch ones (was yours a manual).
I'm starting to think about the next car. Should I opt for my own this time etc. Saw a rather nice Maserati Ghibli 3.0TD on Autotrader. About £30k (ish) and a few years old.
Back to dual clutch gearboxes, how much is an average repair? Might rule out DCG for my next car if I buy it second hand.
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Mine was manual - they said it was wear and tear. I dispute that and say a clutch should last longer than 2 years and 30k miles.
They said driver error and refused to pay anything. Clutch was around £1k and DMF was also to be replaced which was roughly the same again.
I sold it to Evans Halshaw instead.
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I seem to recall you selling it now before you fixed it.
I had a clutch go on my Mondeo early. But I remember saying before I had to do a hill-start on a really steep hill in the lakes with the car fully loaded. I knew then I'd seriously damaged it. It was a while before it needed replacing and thankfully the bill was paid by the company scheme.
I now like autos again... so wondering about my next car. I like the DSG but maybe something like a Mazda6 with a torque converter. Or a Jaguar XF auto second hand?
Back to zippy's question.... do we think a DSG in a Hyundai is going to last 75k miles without problems? And will the warranty cover repairs?
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We had the clutch give problems at 2 years 10 months on our 2012 i20 - judder in first and second. Replaced with a modified clutch under warranty, no quibble.
The majority of new car warranties only provide limited cover for clutches.
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>>Clutch problems
As it is a semi automatic DCT would early clutch wear will be down to the system malfunctioning rather than user error?
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Depends how it's been driven/serviced, although "with about 5,000 miles on the clock and about 4 years of the five year warranty left" you should be okay I would have thought.
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>> As it is a semi automatic DCT would early clutch wear will be down to
>> the system malfunctioning rather than user error?
You can hold a DSG car on the clutch when on an incline so the clutch is slipping like in a manual. So it would be easy to damage the clutch. Of course you're not meant to hold a DSG car on the clutch and the handbook says so.
So It'd say it is quite possible the clutch could get damaged and warranty does not cover it. Presumably with a DSG only one clutch is damaged in this scenario but can you replace just one? And with a dry clutch DSG I would think it's easier to damage it due to the heat.
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There are problems reported on web forums about Tucson DCT. The problem is limited to Tucson only (not Sportage) so I guess Hydundai and Kia use different DCT.
>> You can hold a DSG car on the clutch when on an incline so the clutch is slipping like in a manual.
My Kia DCT holds the car for 2 seconds (HAC) after taking foot off the brake. For longer stops, I use handbrake.
I would argue why clutches in DCT can't be covered under warranty. The system is designed to disengage the clutch if excessive heating is sensed. In fact, the Tucson DCT is all about transmission getting disengaged. The Tucson DCT genrates more heat than necessary (under normal driving) and sensors disengage it suddenly.
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>> I would argue why clutches in DCT can't be covered under warranty
Because you could burn out a clutch in the DCT/DSG by applying a bit of accelerator and holding it on the clutch. You're not meant to but you can. Just like you're not meant to hold a manual on the clutch for too long with it slipping.
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Thanks for all of your comments. More still welcome!!!
If crawling damages the DCT clutch then how is one supposed to make progress in slow moving traffic / traffic jams?
I don't have the manual for one. When I had an automatic previously, it was just left in drive and would crawl forward slowly and hold on hills (foot brake required at times to stop going over a junction).
Are you now supposed to put the handbrake on every time and put it in neutral or park every time?
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Have you checked the leasing costs are correct for your 25K/30K per years?
2nd hand car with low mileage & 18K per year seems to be over £300 /mth
Brand new, 30K miles per year for 4 years must be hugely more than £330 /mth
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>> Have you checked the leasing costs are correct for your 25K/30K per years?
>>
>> 2nd hand car with low mileage & 18K per year seems to be over £300
>> /mth
>> Brand new, 30K miles per year for 4 years must be hugely more than £330
>> /mth
>>
>>
Example here...
www.nationwidevehiclecontracts.co.uk/Hyundai-tuscon-leasing.htm?semi=1
You have to change the mileage settings and choose personal lease.
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>>If crawling damages the DCT clutch then how is one supposed to make progress in slow moving traffic / traffic jams?
On the Volvo V40 with the Powershift dual wet clutch transmission I was checking out last week, I read somewhere on the Volvo forum that you're advised to leave a gap in bumper-to-bumper traffic, then drive up to the car in front, instead of creeping - THAT would annoy some folk for sure.
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I always leave a gap regardless. If the S ever hits the fan then there is a possibility of an escape route. My it does pee orf the Muppet behind though cos they've been denied an extra 12 feet of progress. Such is life.
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>> I always leave a gap regardless. If the S ever hits the fan then there
>> is a possibility of an escape route. My it does pee orf the Muppet behind
>> though cos they've been denied an extra 12 feet of progress. Such is life.
>>
I try and do the same myself! However, more recently I have been tooted at, or had lights flashed and had angry fists raised!
Of course there is always someone in an adjacent lane that wants to take advantage of any crack in the line!
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I often negotiate a nearby roundabout. The exit road is often full with traffic waiting for the traffic lights 300 yards away to change. It does seem to me a lack of courtesy for cars in the waiting traffic not it close up the gaps in the queue to allow the maximum number of vehicles to exit the roundabout and make full use of the available roadspace.
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Years ago I was advised by my IAM Observer that when stopped behind someone, either at lights, queuing traffic, always ensure you can see their rear tyres. Open to interpretation I suppose because the view forward to said tyres will differ between that in an SUV and a low roadster.
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>> Years ago I was advised by my IAM Observer that when stopped behind someone, either
>> at lights, queuing traffic, always ensure you can see their rear tyres.
Driving instructor either generally or in pass plus taught my kids 'tyres and tarmac' should be visible when properly seperated from vehicle in front.
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When I say close upI mean not leaving an entire car length between vehicles in stationary traffic.
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>> If crawling damages the DCT clutch
Crawling does not damage DCT clutch - in fact DCT should crawl just like TC auto
>> Are you now supposed to put the handbrake on every time and put it in neutral or park every time?
My DCT car manual says shift lever to neutral when standing in traffic and taking foot of the brake. It advises not to use handbrake when shift lever is in D. Does not bother me - even in my TC auto I never applied parking brake in D but moved to N first. I follow same rule for manual as well as auto.
Here is the quote from manual (it means as soon as you apply parking brake, clutch is disengaged).
NOTICE - DCT
Whilst stopping the vehicle by applying parking brake in D gear, even if you release the parking brake, the vehicle may not move. In this case, you can drive the vehicle by applying the foot brake and release, applying the accelerator or shifting the lever (D → N → D).
Last edited by: movilogo on Wed 11 Jan 17 at 19:48
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Hyundai - Man Maths Help - rtj70
