Its done 48k, time for a fairly major service.
Filters, brake pads, fluids etc etc. Its cold, damn near freezing, so doing it in short bursts over a few days, a luxury us retired geezers can afford.
Got my stuff from a combo of places, Dealer, Euro Car Parts, and Halfords.
Cheapest place by some large margin for brake pads is ECP - Dealer 49 quid, ECP 27 quid for Pagid pads. (who the hell are Pagid BTW - never heard of them before)
Got the Oil filter from dealer - I always go for dealer oil filters, wont take a chance elsewhere.
Got the Air filter from dealer, it was a similar price to ECP
Got the aircon pollen filter from dealer, where it was less than half the price that ECP would have charged. 13 quid verses 29 quid. Where did that price come from!!
5 litres of red antifreeze from ECP. Antifreeze colours are a minefield, current stuff in (from new) is green. gone for OAT type for a full coolant change.
Halfords 10w/40 semi synth was on a 20% off special so 5 litres of that to go in.
Halfords DOT4 brake fluid bought to replace , and purchased a Gunsons EEZibleed. That looks like a waste of money, it comes with two or three caps which look like they might fit a few master cylinders from 50 years ago, but not mine. You can of course purchase a "universal" cap which costs as much again as the base kit. No mention anywhere on the product or website that it wont work on my car - Not fit for purpose in my book.
Thinking I may need to change the front disks, its developed a high speed braking vibration, feels like front right, I will see when I change pads if its gone.
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The only comment I can make, having serviced my own bikes when I was a pauper and bikes were out of warranty, I wouldn't compromise on brake components, always go for the best I could afford, usually EBC or Ferodo, always a known branded make though.
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Pagid is German so I would take the chance !
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Just been bought late last year by the Japs. After much research it appears to be Mintex!
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Mintex would pass the test for a bike...! Bargain then.
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I seem to remember reading that you should only bleed brakes on ABS equiped cars by the pressure or vacuum methods and never by pumping the fluid through on the pedal, something to do with getting air into the ABS unit that can be a nightmare to get rid of. So if you can't find the right cap for the Eezibleed it might be better to get that done at a garage. The Vauxhall dealer next to work will do a brake fluid change on any make for 25 quid, not worth the hassle of DIY at that price IMHO anyway.
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I might buy a spare cap for the master cylinder and drill it for the eazibleed connector, I am just bleating about how much of a con the product is where you have to pay the same price again for something that fits.
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"I might buy a spare cap for the master cylinder and drill it for the eazibleed connector, I am just bleating about how much of a con the product is where you have to pay the same price again for something that fits."
Yes that would annoy me too. They don't still put those tiny caps in the kits that fitted the Lockheed cylinders on the 60's Minis & 1100's etc do they ?
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Don't do what I did. Pipe attaches to eezibleed cap with two nuts on a threaded end. Cap screws onto Master Cylinder. Air valve open.
Down to wheel, open nipple, nothing. Scratch head, notice pool of brake fluid forming beneath engine....
When screwing the cap onto the Master Cylinder, the action of doing so has a nasty habit of loosening the nut securing the pipe.
When I washed it off, it had done a fantastic job of cleaning the crud off a patch of my paved drive. I'm wondering how much brake fluid I'd need to do the rest of it!
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Pagid are an OEM supplier of brake components to BMW, Mercedes and VW among others. Their quality is excellent.
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Anti-freeze colour is a complete red herring - it's best to ignore colour completely, and simply make sure that you use the correct spec of fluid.
As I'm a bit of a wuss, if I do use an eezi-bleed, I also put a tie-wrap around the reservoir and master cylinder. I don't know how much pressure is needed to blow a reservoir out of the the rubber grommets which hold it into the master cylinder, and I don't want to find out!
Pagid are an OK brand - they have been around for years - I first saw them as replacement brake linings for Mercedes trucks in the 70's, but, I'm sure their history goes back much further.
A good, easy way to do a brake fluid change is simply to rely upon gravity.
- use a Pela, or similar to almost empty the master cylinder of old fluid.
- top up with new.
- connect a pipe to container and open the bleed nipple.
- drink tea, eat biscuits, etc, etc,
- keep an eye on the fluid level in mater cylinder, topping up as the level slowly drops
- repeat for the other three brakes
Last edited by: Number_Cruncher on Sun 15 Jan 12 at 18:27
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...Anti-freeze colour is a complete red herring - it's best to ignore colour completely...
A manufacturer's view here:
Quoting: "Green antifreeze does not mix with long life antifreeze. Never mix the two colours in a cooling system."
www.bluecol.co.uk/index.cfm?page=75
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>> ...Anti-freeze colour is a complete red herring - it's best to ignore colour completely...
>>
>> A manufacturer's view here:
>>
>> Quoting: "Green antifreeze does not mix with long life antifreeze. Never mix the two colours
>> in a cooling system."
>>
>> www.bluecol.co.uk/index.cfm?page=75
I plan to drain fully and flush. I figured mixing cocktail colours would provide a hangover.
Last edited by: Zero on Sun 15 Jan 12 at 18:34
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...I plan to drain fully and flush...
Seems the only certain way to avoid potential mixing problems.
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>>A manufacturer's view here:
Yes, that's true - for Bluecol anti freeze.
Unless you put it there, how do you know what brand of anti freeze is in there to begin with.
There is no cross manufacturer standard on anti-freeze colours, and matching colours up isn't a safe way to proceed - mathing anti freeze specification with the manufacturer's specification IS a safe way to proceed.
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>
>> A good, easy way to do a brake fluid change is simply to rely upon
>> gravity.
Does that really work? splendid!!!!
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>> >
>> >> A good, easy way to do a brake fluid change is simply to rely
>> upon
>> >> gravity.
>>
>> Does that really work? splendid!!!!
>>
All too well when you're trying to replace a flexi, and fluid is peeing out of the end of the pipe!
In my experience, I would be much surprised if it didn't work.
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Fine (if) the operatives are up to speed. I am (have) given up on employees and their...."That'll do routine". Just an opinion!
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>> Halfords 10w/40 semi synth was on a 20% off special so 5 litres of that
>> to go in.
>>
Spendthrift.
I got 5ltr of semi synth in Wilkinsons for £13.18.
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My ole bus is due for a service + cambelt in March, he's an 08 on 35k smiles, s'going to a pain dealer in Falmouth :)
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>> My ole bus is due for a service + cambelt in March, he's an 08
>> on 35k smiles, s'going to a pain dealer in Falmouth :)
Don't fancy getting down and dirty like the Zod then?
Last edited by: corax on Sun 15 Jan 12 at 19:19
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Good idea to get a spare fluid cap didn't fit the Hilux either but does the MB's ok, no need to do that till the spring though i'd have thought, be able to give it a damned good hose down underneath and get the salt out of the nooks then maybe splosh some Waxoyl on the brake pipes and anywhere else that looks needy whilst there.
Would be the perfect opportunity for a brake strip check clean too if you can leave the pads till then...discs or drums at the back end?
Spark plugs or gearbox oil on the agenda?
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>> Would be the perfect opportunity for a brake strip check clean too if you can
>> leave the pads till then...discs or drums at the back end?
Disks. going to need to tweak the handbrake cable. The handbrake has a naturally long travel, the service manual says 5-7 clicks, and its on 7 if you give it a good tug. The tester wrote me up an advisory on it last time despite the fact its within spec. Good handbrake tho, will lock the rear wheels in motion on a dry road.
>>
>> Spark plugs or gearbox oil on the agenda?
Plugs done 24k ago, just a clean and check this time out, gearbox oil is specced to 90k miles, just a level check this time round. Might drop it out when it warmer tho and go for a notch down viscosity wise as the box is a bit slow when cold. Easy enough to drop, but will be a git to fill, with the filler/level plug high up and hard to reach, will need to pump it in in some way.
i will loosen the grub screws this time out when the callipers come off for the pads change, laddo has an electric impact driver somewhere.
Last edited by: Zero on Sun 15 Jan 12 at 21:51
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>>Don't fancy getting down and dirty like the Zod then?<<
TBH corax, I don't have much enthusiasm for servicing cars these days, in the olde days when ya serviced and tuned it up you got the payback by way of a noticeable improvement in wrooooom, but these days most cars are just coloured (can I say that) white goods really.
Perhaps a need to get a car with spunk i.e. a BMW ;)
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>> TBH corax, I don't have much enthusiasm for servicing cars these days
I don't blame you. My mechanic is so reasonable I'd rather let him do it. When I had the BMW I would get all the service parts from German and Swedish and let him supply oil, but with the Avensis I just let him sort it all out. It's not a car to get 'enthusiastic' over.
Besides, bending over a bonnet for any more than 15 minutes starts to bring on my sciatica. Oh, for a four post lift...
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>>I just let him sort it all out. It's not a car to get 'enthusiastic' over<<
Similar car to the Lancer really ~ well built, reliable, and boring ... perhaps we both need to hear a 6 cyl BMW *engine, again.
(*Petrol of course!)
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>> Similar car to the Lancer really ~ well built, reliable, and boring ... perhaps we
>> both need to hear a 6 cyl BMW *engine, again.
>>
>> (*Petrol of course!)
Feast your ears on this and drool..
www.youtube.com/watch?v=rVkY8oA3RlE
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Halfords 10w/40 semi synth was on a 20% off special so 5 litres of that to go in.
Does this not use fully synthetic oils & i preffer Millers oil.
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Just thinking, you might need an impact driver (hand held type that you hit with hammer whilst the philips head is locked in the screw) to unscrew the grub screws that clip the discs on.
If it wasn't for my trusty driver i'd have ended up drilling them out at both ends of the Civic, maybe even if you decide not to replace them it might be prudent to remove and refit the grub screws with a dob of coppaslip.
Another thought, i assume the discs come off normally and not from behind the hub like the idiotic Hyundai design of Coupe/Elantra.
Last edited by: gordonbennet on Sun 15 Jan 12 at 19:46
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Bleeding brakes...do you not just hold the pedal down with a chunk of wood, and then let the engine do the work??? Oh no, forgot, that only works on cars with proper brakes that run on LHM....:-)
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>>might be prudent to remove and refit the grub screws with a dob of coppaslip.
That's one of the very few applications of copperslip I agree with - the other thing, of course, is to re-install the grub screw using only a moderate and sensible torque - bearing in mind the wheels hold the disc on, not the grub screw!
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>>might be prudent to remove and refit the grub screws with a dob of coppaslip.
I've come across thread locking compound on these screws before. Merc C class IIRC.
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>> I've come across thread locking compound on these screws before. Merc C class IIRC.
>>
Never had a problem with MB's Tom, ISTR they are a substantial Allen screw that always come undone without the slightest bother, maybe the use of locking compound stops the screw rusting.
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>> Does this not use fully synthetic oils & i preffer Millers oil.
Nah, this is a low tech low stressed engine, the service schedule calls for mineral oil every 9k, but as I do 12k a year, it gets semi synth every 12k.
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Pagid are a brand from a company called TMD that also manufactures Mintex. Widely known in Europe but mainly distributed by Euro Car Parts in the UK.
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Random replies;
Pagid make their pads in Stockport I think. There's an outlet near me with a big BMW reg. PAG1D often outside.
My Ezibleed fits the Citroen brake fluid reservoirs I show it and it's made light work of changing/bleeding for me. Couldn't you have checked what the kit was good for first before condemning it as not fit?
I've stopped doing complete fluid changes; I bleed an EU standard jam-jar full out of each wheel cylinder every year and hope that the tiny interface between old and new fluid doesn't pass too many contaminants.
As it's so cold will you be wearing wussy latex gloves (like I do) ?
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>> Couldn't you have checked what the kit was good for
>> first before condemning it as not fit?
If you could find that information anywhere pre purchase i would be interested to see it.
>> As it's so cold will you be wearing wussy latex gloves (like I do) ?
Of course, and I will be charging myself for them, along with clean up materials and an environmental disposal fee.
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>> I've stopped doing complete fluid changes; I bleed an EU standard jam-jar full out of
>> each wheel cylinder every year and hope that the tiny interface between old and new
>> fluid doesn't pass too many contaminants.
>>
I did the same when I did my own services, the only bit of fluid that gets contaminated is the bit in the caliper or wheel cylinder. Just bleed until it comes out clean.
I sent an Ezibleed to my pal in Australia as it is not available there, he thought it was a brilliant bit of kit.
Last edited by: Old Navy on Mon 16 Jan 12 at 14:04
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I've got a fancy pressure bleeder that fills the reservoir as it empties (if you see what I mean). As with Zero, none of the 'standard' lids fit japanese cars. But they did supply a universal top that's big and flat, and has a small chain with J bolts. The chain goes under the master cylinder and is tensioned with the J bolts. A bit fiddly, but it works.
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More random thoughts.
Oil and Filters (inc air and cabin) changed today, locks and stuff lubricated.
Front wheels came off, checked pads, an easy MOT pass with about 15k left on them, so will leave them till the summer. Cleaned out blocked washer jet. All ready now for the mot.
The front disks appear to be held on with a hub nut, disk and outer hub appear to be one piece.
Got an email back from Gunson after I moaned about the product to them, basically it said ~tough~ and if you are lucky we might think about putting the fact that it wont work on MOST Japanese cars on the web page, and instructions. Wont mention it in the advertising blurb tho.
Ordered a new Cap and membrane from the dealer, will modify the old one for use with the device.
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>> The front disks appear to be held on with a hub nut, disk and outer
>> hub appear to be one piece.
That doesn't sound too encouraging, still you've got some time to find out exactly what type they are.
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My old Nissan Laurel had the wheel bearing inside the one-piece hub/disc.
Was indeed a pain in the bahookie to replace compared to the usual set up.
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>> The front disks appear to be held on with a hub nut, disk and outer
>> hub appear to be one piece.
>>
"Appear to be" may be operative in that. It's quite possible that the discs are flat, rather than "top hat", seperate and bolt onto the back of the hub. That used to be the way things were done when asbestos pads were around and discs (mostly) lasted forever.
Usually this means that the hub has to come off to change the discs. A bit of a pig for owners of older cars forced to modern pads and modern levels of disc wear.
The one exception here was a Talbot Alpine that I owned. On that, the back of the hub was shaped like a four-lobed jigsaw puzzle piece, with a threaded hole in each "ear" and the disc had a hole the same shape in the middle. Remove bolts, rotate disc through 45 degrees and remove. Very cunning.
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Update.
Whipped out the front pads* on Monday to examine them and the disks to find out what's causing the increasing brake judder.
Offside inside pad was stiff in its slider, subsequently the disk on that side has a thin unworn (rusty) line in the centre and matching groove in the pad and an un-swept (rusty) area nearest the hub and a subsequent chamfer worn on the pad.
* two part calliper, the pad carrier / piston is held with two pin bolts, loosen one and remove other to swing up carrier and pull the pads out by hand - nice design.
Put pads back as they were, and went for MOT today.
Passed with no comment on front brakes (surprisingly efficiency on both sides is exactly the same, and hence front brake balance is spot on - I was watching the dials)
However, I copped an advisory on "rear on limit brake pad" Apparently the offside rear inside pad is worn to almost the limit. With the rest of them being ok, and this one rear pad wearing before the rest (even the fronts) it must have been binding, tho the tester said its not binding now. I never thought to check the rear pads, never had a set wear out before the fronts.
So my immediate plans are
1/ swap the pads from side to side on the front, and see if 500 miles with the difference in pad surface profiles will clean up the disk
2/ clean up all pad carriers front and rear
3/ change rear pads (Pagid pads at ECP 28 quid)
If 1/ Works I will change pads. If it fails then clearly its new disks - having checked and cleaned up, it looks like its just a remove the whole caliper and knock it off. (hub has studs - wheel is fixed with nuts)
Annual 12k mile service schedule now clearly needs a remove pads, clean callipers and refit step added. Funny how its offside both front and rear.
Last edited by: Zero on Fri 27 Jan 12 at 11:25
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>> Annual 12k mile service schedule now clearly needs a remove pads, clean callipers and refit step added.
I know i harp on about an annual remove/clean/lubricate of the brakes but your post confirms it...see i'm not the only one.
I was a kerbside cowboy for years and most cars that came in showed partial seizing of some part of the braking system or something that required a little titillation to prevent uneven wear or something developing, and too often complete horrors that would make your hair stand on end.
A lot of the problem is salt corrosion IMO causing a build up of crud where the pads sit, seeing as they don't really move they end up stuck as sometimes do the pistons and the sliders, a good hose down of the brakes after a wet winter run now and agin would work wonders for most cars.
Imagine the problem when a car gets stood for months after winter use if someone doesn't get that salt washed out prior to defleet or standing down.
Whilst there did you see what was involved in discs replacement if needed, will the discs come off easily or are they mounted behind the hub?
Will you need a wind back tool for the rear calipers, or are the water pump pliers coming out to play..:-)
Thanks for the update Z.....PS how are the brake pipes looking?
I'm just about to pop out and renew the discs/pads on the front of the C2, there is a fair old wear ridge on the discs and its not getting any smaller..;), so sunny day and i've decided to do it...will whip one side off and take disc and pad up to my factors, get a big smile of thanks for bringing a pattern for confirmation with French stuff..;)
One of the reasons is that i want a stamped service doing soon, no point in paying them to do a job i can, and less likelihood of a reluctance to stamp the book if i get the brakes done first....MOT in March too not as that would have been a problem.
Last edited by: gordonbennet on Fri 27 Jan 12 at 12:00
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>> Whilst there did you see what was involved in discs replacement if needed, will the
>> discs come off easily or are they mounted behind the hub?
It looks like they are just held on by the wheel studs. Remove complete calliper and knock them off. Not as easy as it sounds of course, the complete calliper is held on with two bolts that appear to be seized, and the disk is bound to be rusted into place so "knocking it off" without "knackering wheel bearing" is the hard part. I'll get some plusgas penetration oil on the calliper nuts asap.
>> Will you need a wind back tool for the rear calipers, or are the water
>> pump pliers coming out to play..:-)
Wind back tool? nah they just push, so its water pump pliers
>>
>> Thanks for the update Z.....PS how are the brake pipes looking?
OK so far.
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...It looks like they are just held on by the wheel studs...
The studs are almost certainly mounted on the disc casting:
www.brakeparts.co.uk/
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The studs are on the hub, and the disk rotor slips over the studs and hub.
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...The studs are on the hub, and the disk rotor slips over the studs and hub...
Ah, with it now.
A leg puller would be one way to remove the disc.
This one's probably not the right size, but a suitable one could be found.
www.justoffbase.co.uk/78mm-Reach-X-100mm-Spread-Twin-Triple-Leg-Reversible-Puller-25994-Draper-N134
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There is bound to be a wee bit of play in the interface between studs on hub and holes in disk rotor, I was thinking of slackening off the wheel nuts a tad and then slowly forwards and backwards on the brakes. That should loosen he corrosion between the tight fit over the hub.
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Are you sure your rear pistons won't need a wind-back?
How does your handbrake work?
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>> Are you sure your rear pistons won't need a wind-back?
>>
>> How does your handbrake work?
I pull a lever between the seats.
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I paid a bit more than that Z and bought one with enough adaptors to fit probably every car on the planet, about £30 ISTR....if you want a model no or anything just shout.
EDIT, C2 done., oh and if i hadn't taken the parts up the disc in his book was non vented.
Last edited by: gordonbennet on Fri 27 Jan 12 at 15:13
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Okie Dokie
Whipped off the rear wheels. The offside outer pad:
www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Mitsubishi_Lancer_1.6_2007/p/car-parts/car-service-parts/regular-service/brake-pads/?101690268&1&ee8858391506a0467128149c262563ccc410ce70&000036
the smaller one of the two, is the worn culprit. The inner one (the larger one) is the one that was sticking.
Freed it off for now, off to ECP this afternoon for a set of pads. The rear wheel piston is a push back type, because the handbrake is two shoes inside the drum/hub.
Swapped the front pads round to see if a weeks driving will re-profile the front disks.
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Haven't you got a little man who could see to that sort of thing for you? Some of them are awfully good you know.
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>> Haven't you got a little man who could see to that sort of thing for
>> you? Some of them are awfully good you know.
>>
I agree, I am quite capable of servicing the oily bits, but don't have to any more.
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I quite enjoy the tinkering. Some of us have more strings to our bows than travelling in ladies underwear shoes.
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All sounds a bit faux artisan to me. I mean I could see a chap being diverted by fettling an old Maserati or something but, well, you know. Fair enough though I suppose, probably helps to fill in the hours before Countdown and Eggheads etc comes on.
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And thats the rear brake pads done.
Clean up the slidy bit of the calliper with the small wire brush on the dremmel, re-dressed the disk witht he grindstone on the dremmel, coppaslip on the bits that should slide and not on the bits that shouldn't.
Left off the brake warning squeal spring, three of them had fallen off anyway, - complete waste of space.
Not too chilly out there today, 5c but no wind so it was pleasant enough.
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Antiques Roadshow should be on soon too...
:-)
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Yeah - you should be able to shove an old (mock Tudor style) chest of drawers in the back of that estate of yours, not quite like the volvo you aspire to, but never mind.
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You'll be off down the antique auctions with all the money you've saved then Z.
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>>Left off the brake warning squeal spring<<
I don't mind a bit of brake squeal as it appens - lets the peds know you're there without having to use the ooter.
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>>lets the peds know you're there without having to use the ooter.
Oh yes!
My bike brakes let out a horrendous squeal to warn the unobservant pedestrian on the cycle path and the occasional dog, even after ringing the bell.
It once put a young lad into the bushes!
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So the brake judder has been getting worse, my plan to swap the old pads around to dress the disk failed, I bit the bullet and purchased a pair of brake disks (rotors for our American pals) 80 quid - and changed them today.
Easy job, I loosened the wheel nuts and cracked the brakes hard a few times going backwards and forwards.
The calliper bolts came off nicely, and the front R/H disk just dropped off a treat with a gentle knock. The horror that was the inside of the front r/h disk can be seen here.
s606.photobucket.com/albums/tt148/know_wun/lancer%20brake%20disk/
The side of the disk that can be seen through the wheel looked perfect, the inside however was a right mess.
The L/H disk was much more stubborn, refusing to come off with some mallet persuasion . Fortunately the bright sparks who made the car had threaded two holes in the disk, in which you can screw in a bolt and push the disk off the hub - Genius! Thank you Mr Mitsubishi.
Front disk and pads now replaced.
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And the judder???
C'mon don't keep us in suspense!
Had a brake judder once and discs (both sides) looked perfect - it wasn't until I examined them more closely that I saw a couple of small rusty defects on one of the disc surfaces, perhaps 5mm or so in diameter - new discs cured it.
Edit: just looked at Zed's pic - must be over 1mm of lipping there ?
Last edited by: Lygonos on Thu 23 Feb 12 at 16:58
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>> And the judder???
>>
>> C'mon don't keep us in suspense!
I dont know! Its only happens at 70-50 mph! I 'll find out next time I am out on the fast roads. I am convinced its cured tho.
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Oh ok, just in case you've not tightened 'em up right. We'll miss you a bit I suppose...
:-)
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Just for you humph, so you wont have to waste mealy mouthed words at my funeral, I will get Torquey the wrench out tomorrow and check them before I go anywhere.
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Nah, take her up to 90 and stand on them. Trust your instincts.
( if it'll do 90 )
:-)
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The view in that last pic is always incredibly satisfying when you get to it. :-)
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>> I am convinced its cured tho.
It will be of course. And with luck the new discs and pads will be used to each other by the time you need them in earnest at 80 plus.
That disc looked pretty horrible. All secondhand cars are cans of worms of course. But was judder at highish speed the only symptom? No scraping noises or anything with the windows open?
There was a loose bolt or rivet in one of the rear drums of my father's Peugeot 205 diesel. It jammed into one of the shoes and a scraping noise under braking got worse and worse. The bolt had gouged a semicircular channel nearly all the way through the drum.
That was a new car, main dealer serviced.
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The inner part of the disc collects the road salt and muck and sits there behind the back plate corroding away.
If they were in spec a skim would have cleaned them up but better to replace as this was a cheap job doing it yourself.
Did you crack off the bleed nipple on the caliper and push the piston back or just take off the resovoir cap?
If brake fluid is at least 4yrs old replace.
I do hope you used axle stands.!!!
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>> Did you crack off the bleed nipple on the caliper and push the piston back
No
>> or just take off the resovoir cap?
Yes
>>
>> If brake fluid is at least 4yrs old replace.
Next job
>>
>> I do hope you used axle stands.!!!
Yes
I have to add here I have nothing but the highest praise for my local branch of Euro Car parts. Just type in your reg number on the web page, pick the parts you want, order for collection, and they phone you back almost right away to say the stuff is waiting for you.
Cant find it cheaper anywhere, always quality branded parts, always the right part, always in stock, and cheerful helpful people to boot.
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>> I have to add here I have nothing but the highest praise for my local
>> branch of Euro Car parts. Just type in your reg number on the web page,
>> pick the parts you want, order for collection, and they phone you back almost right
>> away to say the stuff is waiting for you.
I second that. Always had excellent prices and service on the various bits I've got from them over the years.
The absolute bargain of the century was the clutch and DMF kit for the Golf. I tried my luck with a 25% discount voucher code on the site not thinking for a minute it would work. When it did, and knocked £100 off the total, I snapped it up. Bagged a complete kit of everything I needed to do the job, all OEM (Sachs) manufactured, for 300 notes delivered.
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carparts4less.co.uk appears to be a net only arm of ECP - and they are 25-40% cheaper!
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Euro Car parts.
I can't say the same they didn't have a set of pads for a 58 plate Honda Jazz.
Other local factor did get them the next day.
So i assume if your car is 4yrs or older they stock it.
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Its a nice day, nice to be outside - so I just flushed and changed the coolant. Even washed out the expansion bottle.
Nice handy tap on the bottom of the rad, all the pipes run so there is no airlock. I have to say the lancer is a real delight to work on.
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...Nice handy tap on the bottom of the rad...
You dodged a bullet there, Zeddo.
We never used the taps on older cars because twisting them often cracked the surrounding metal, wrecking the rad.
Always safer to remove the bottom hose.
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>> ...Nice handy tap on the bottom of the rad...
>>
>> You dodged a bullet there, Zeddo.
>>
>> We never used the taps on older cars because twisting them often cracked the surrounding
>> metal, wrecking the rad.
>>
>> Always safer to remove the bottom hose.
Nicely designed plastic tap in the plastic bottom of the radiator. I wasn't going to give it too much force, but a gentle tweak and out she came.
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...Nicely designed plastic tap...
Jaguars used to have a little tap in the side of the block.
It was brass and beautifully made in the style a traditional kitchen tap.
A true jewel of the coolant tap world.
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I have to say the lancer is a real delight to work on.
>>
Proper Japanese designs seem to be like this, I found daughters Civic a joy, equally the Hilux and previous Toyota's i've owned and worked on over the years.
Sons Seat Toledo was simply awful to work on, renewing the radiator required the removal of half the front of the car and rusted bolts galore, and don't ever be tempted into trying to replace the heater matrix which must on that design have been the first part fitted to the bare shell, a nightmare i will never repeat.
In my kerbside cowboying days Renaults were the car to have nothing to do with, Japanese cars only ever required regular servicing for they seldom went wrong.
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>>I have to say the lancer is a real delight to work on<<
Stop it, stop it, stop it - you're making have the urge!
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>> And the judder???
>>
>> C'mon don't keep us in suspense!
Cured.
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...Cured...
Or c-c-c-c-cured - if (illegally) posted from his iphone.
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Just out of curiousity Z, what do you reckon the discs and pads bit of your job cost DIY?
"Her" Qashqai went in yesterday for a service and MOT and I knew it needed front pads and discs.
Haven't had time to sort it out myself so I, perhaps naively, asked her to book it in. Fair enough, she's took it yesterday to our local Nissan dealers.
As an aside they've loaned her a new model Nissan Micra. Must be the top model, climate, sunroof, sat nav etc. Quite a good wee thing. Too small for our tastes though.
Anyway, they kept it in overnight because the job ran over and we've just had a call to say it's ready.
Service and MOT comes to £180 which isn't cheap but seems ok for a main dealer. The brakes though...
£300 !!!!
Blood and Sand !!
:-(
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>> Service and MOT comes to £180 which isn't cheap but seems ok for a main
>> dealer. The brakes though...
>>
>> £300 !!!!
>>
>> Blood and Sand !!
>>
>> :-(
>>
That's an outrageous price!! Audi quoted £249 to replace the front pads and discs on the A4 after noting that they were 70% worn at MOT time. By my reckoning 70% worn in 50k miles meant they had a bit more life in them...so maybe next year ;-)
Peter
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Car's only done 30k too. Mind you, my old Qq needed the same job at 34k. Mumbles something about a Ford again next time....Kuga maybe..
:-)
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1p per mile for brakes then. I'd stop using them if you can.
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I'll tell her. Good tip that !
:-)
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>>Just out of curiousity Z, what do you reckon the discs and pads bit of your job cost DIY?<<
80 squids for the disks & 27 squids for the pads.
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Yup - as he says 80 squids for the disks and 27 quid for the pads, and in a garage I reckon an hours labour (it took me two but that was with much loafing around)
Local garage quoted me 180 quid inc parts. I have since found out his factor would have charged him 57 quid for the same disks and 24 quid for the pads.
Your garage ripped you off. Pads are 48 quid max, and disks 82 for your wifes mota. No wonder its called a cashcow. What they have done is taken the book time to change disks, and the book time to change pads and added them together for the labour.
Last edited by: Zero on Sat 3 Mar 12 at 12:48
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Ah well, I suppose she got a free shot of a new Micra for a couple of days. Didn't like it to look at but enjoyed driving it she says....now she blinking tells me....Way cheaper than Qashqais those are.
Probably the last time we'll use a main dealer for that car anyway. It has its 4th birthday in a couple of weeks so even if we decide to keep it long term ( which we probably will ) it'll be going to our trusted local indy in future. Not through any sense of pique at the bill really. I guess if you stick your head above that parapet you'll get it shot at sometime or another. How else woud they afford all that chrome, glass, hair gel and tiled floors anyway? Poor lambs.
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Ah, tiled showroom floors! Anyone else have difficulty staying upright on them? I've been in from work in leather soles, and in my weekend Pikolinos things with their rubber-block soles: same either way - any change of speed or direction needs thorough planning and very careful execution. Worse than attempting wooden stairs in socks. Any suggestions for car shopping shoes? (Not you, Bobby, thanks all the same.)
}:---)
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Your best ones WdB. People get taken seriously in a decent pair of shoes. Commands respect.
I mean, you just can't get away with - "Now look here, I'm almost certainly going to buy a car from you today laddie provided you can make me feel comfortable that I should give you my business" - in a pair of cheap shoes now can you? Doesn't scan does it?
:-)
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Good shoes plus chinos - job done!
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I'd be inclined to add a shirt m'self, not necessarily a tie but almost certainly a shirt. Not a football one either. Long sleeved and tucked in of course. Decent watch wouldn''t hurt, oh and a good leather belt naturally.
Last edited by: Humph D'Bout on Sat 3 Mar 12 at 16:21
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Never could get on with short sleeved shirts myself. Sort of feel half dressed.
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Polo shirts are acceptable at weekends and if in the Americas or in the Med.
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Never could get on with short sleeved shirts myself.
They're OK provided they're part of an outfit that's casual enough for the shirt to be untucked - Hawaiian or Mandela-style. (You can buy a 'presidential' shirt from a shop at Johannesburg airport; I almost did!) Not with tailored trousers and shiny shoes, though, and never with a tie.
In an idle moment of a previous employer's time, I read the following in an online guide to dressing for business:
Do not wear a tie with a short-sleeved shirt unless the amusement park you work in requires you to.
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...and never with a tie...
Quite right, a gentleman never wears a tie with a short sleeved shirt.
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>> going to buy a car from you today laddie provided you can make me feel comfortable that I should give you my business" - in a pair of cheap shoes now can you? Doesn't scan does it?
Car salesmen, a peculiar breed with a lot of toerag behind the reek of aftershave, may care about the punters' footwear, but why should we suck up to these twerps Humph? They are just goddam shopkeepers after all. Who gives a toss about their opinions? One isn't going to have a social relationship with them.
Tchah!
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Precisely AC, which is why every opportunity to dominate them from the outset should be taken advantage of.
:-)
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Mitsubishi Lancer - Servicing the Lancer - random thoughts - R.P.
