We are redecorating the spare room and going to paint the walls - took the original paper off last night, and I reckon when the house was built, the decorators were paying for their own wallpaper paste, all the paper came straight off
Whats the best process, i've heard of people coating the wall with a thin layer of pva before painting, is it worth it or a waste of time.
Also, whats the best thing for filling the cracks, dents and nail holes ? is it a case of getting some polyfilla from the nearest supermarket, or is their something better it's work traipsing across town to the Big Orange Retail Giant for ?
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If the surface is good I would make sure all the paste is removed with sugar soap, fill any small holes and cracks with polyfilla (still the best in my opinion), and sand the walls to remove any imperfections.
I would then give the walls a base coat of matt emulsion which will seal the plaster.
If the walls are in bad condition they might need re-skimming or lining with lining paper. Alternatively you could use an embossed paper to hide any imperfections.
Last edited by: CGNorwich on Fri 30 Aug 13 at 09:13
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Wash, wash and wash again to make sure you remove all traces of paste otherwise any emulsion applied will craze. I know someone who attempted to use a sander to remove the paste - the dust took weeks to clear.
Polyfilla's fine for small imperfections, but I use a flexible filler for cracks especially those near door frames.
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Right, i've got some sugar soap somewhere
Any recommended flexible filler for doors & windows ?
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>> Any recommended flexible filler for doors & windows ?
Painters mate (yes, that's the brand name)
Available from 99% of DIY shops and counters.
Last edited by: VxFan on Fri 30 Aug 13 at 10:15
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For bigger holes I have found easyfill is brilliant, it is supposed to for skimming over the joins on plasterboard, but it works great for filling holes too.
I find a lot of the DIY fillers such as Polyfilla are very difficult to apply smoothly.
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Pollyfilla for old screw holes, chips and digs, White paintable frame sealant for cracks and joints round door frames.
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At the DIY/hardware store where I work, we personally use 1 Strike Filler. Can be used on deep holes without secondary filling, doesn't crack or shrink. Is made out of lightweight polymer bubbles, can be sanded if necessary, and was used this afternoon in the new extension in preference to all the Polyfilla options.
The filler of choice for all the staff.
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Really ! Do you people not have staff to sort out this sort of thing ?
I'm sure Lud does .
Ted
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Dunno about Lud, but I've been well coated in Polyfilla dust many a time, and had the stuff drying on my hands, in my clothes and so on.
Haven't done any whole walls for ages though, plaster scrim coat or anything like that. Just a sort of yellow lead-based filler for the bookcases here... nasty toxic stuff it is too.
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Staff I wish, the problem is I am getting better at DIY the more confident I get, my latest job was propping up joists and replacing some skirton board and I have just bought a circular saw to help me fit the new kitchen.
The problem is my parents are now getting old, and I really need my mum especially to go away for a few days while I turn the old kitchen to pretty much a shell. My dad who is in his 60's is still pretty handy despite the fact he thinks he is not. The problem is I can be proud of the end result, where my dad doesn't seem to have any patience for the end result, despite the fact if he wanted to he could have the ability.
I am still quite proud of the record of ten years though, the only traders we have had in is a builder to replace the windows and a gas man to fix something on the boiler. Everything else I have been able to fix.
Sometimes people asked me how did I learn how to do basic plumbing (compression joints only!!) and wallpapering etc, well the answer is I simply had no choice, I just had to teach myself as my parents never had the money to fix anything. Although my mother taught me how to do decorating. My two great grandparents were decorators (on my mums side) and my dads family were builders, so I supposed I ought to be a lot better than I am!
I really wish I could be like Ted, Zero etc who can lend a hand to anything but I know my limits but my limits still seem to be a lot more than most people can do.
Last edited by: RattleandSmoke on Sat 31 Aug 13 at 04:01
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>> The problem is my parents are now getting old, ............ My dad who is in his 60's ..........
60s isn't old. I wish I was still in my 60s.
;-)
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A circular saw to fit the Kitchen..............................Priceless.
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>> A circular saw to fit the Kitchen..............................Priceless.
So what do you use to cut down Worktops, The carving knife?
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S'wot I was thinking, y'all wood hardly use a jigsaw Shirley.
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>>So what do you use to cut down Worktops, The carving knife?
Only if it has a curved blade.
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Router. Now go back to your trains.
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>> Router. Now go back to your trains.
Only for mitreing 90 corners together, you like every one else uses a circular saw to size worktops.
And he's hardly going to buy a router for one poxy kitchen job now is he.
Get back to your crooked walls jerry.
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Chuff Chuff...............
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"I know my limits but ..."
Give yourself credit, Rats, if those are the limits of your skills you could build yourself a house.
Now, you might decide it makes more sense to do what you do and earn the money to pay someone else to build that hypothetical house. That's not being limited, that's being pragmatic!
All you need are time, practice, the right tools for the job and a SWMBO/parents who don't want the job finished yesterday :-)
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>> Whats the best process, i've heard of people coating the wall with a thin layer
>> of pva before painting, is it worth it or a waste of time.
Definately worth it if the walls are flaky or porous, you could use this
www.dulux.co.uk/products/sealer-for-plaster/
Only needs one coat, it stinks but dries quickly and is convenient. Fill any holes, seal the wall, then you're ready to paint.
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Historically I have always used PVA but current advice is to NOT use PVA. Whether this is all a marketing ploy by the companies who sell special products that cost 5X the price of PVA I do not know:)
Stories of flaking & crazing etc to create UFD! Possibly more of an issue with newplaster?
www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=277819
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PVA is not waterproof, it turns into a disgusting later of mess if you have damp or condensation issues.
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It is actually a mitre saw, will be handy for cutting plinths and other things. The worktops them selves I will get cut from the supplier. There is no corners to do due to the layout of the kitchen there is no difficult joining or mitring of worktops to do.
It is not supposed to be a show room kitchen or anything like that, just something functional that is a lot better than we already have.
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Walls stripped, holes filled, everything smoothed down and first coat on the ceiling
First coat on the sides of the window are showing brushmarks, despite using quality brushes. Is it worth trying paint pads or not ?
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>> Is it worth trying paint pads or not ?
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Paint pads are just sponge with backing, I just use a kitchen sponge for small areas if I can't get a decent finish with a brush.
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I use the very small rollers that are designed to go behind radiators.
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Got one of those.....
use it for painting behind the radiators :-)
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"First coat on the sides of the window are showing brushmarks, despite using quality brushes."
No matter what the quality of the brushes is, you will get brush marks with emulsion. I never use brushes with emulsion, except for cutting in and corners/edges where rollers will not go. I suggest you use a good quality medium pile roller. Also - a roller is MUCH faster than a brush, and you can speed up painting the ceiling by using a brush on a pole, so you're not mucking about shifting a step-ladder all the time.
The little rollers mentioned by Z above are also good for painting window reveals, though they tend not to carry much paint and you may have to do an extra coat. Brush marks in the reveals (if that's what you're talking about) are particularly noticeable because of the angle of the light coming in the window.
If you use matt emulsion any surface marks (including brush marks) will be much less noticeable.
Last edited by: FocalPoint on Fri 6 Sep 13 at 13:35
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It is matt emulsion, and I'll be digging the radiator rollers out to give it a smooth topcoat or two
Another coat of anything won't go amiss anywhere in our house, it's plainly obvious the tradesmen used buy the builders were paying for their own materials - minimal wall paper paste, paint, tile adhesive, sod all priming on outdoor woodwork - the only thing to be used to excess was whatever adhesive they stuck the dado rail onto the plasterboard with :-(
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>> it's plainly obvious the
>> tradesmen used buy the builders were paying for their own materials -
It's great fun when they've used cheap emulsion. The stuff that had been used in our bathroom would come of with a damp cloth. I washed the paint off the walls before tiling.
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It's a relatively modern estate so there are people who live here who watched their houses being built. One of them tells me much of the external woodwork was 'primed' with whitewash rather than primer - we've had the soffits and bargeboards replaced this year, but the front doorstep needs repainting every six months, nothing takes, no matter how hard you strip it back and prime it - gotta look at a new doorstep next year.
And as for the peripheral bits like the block paving and fencing, don't get me started
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>> It's a relatively modern estate so there are people who live here who watched their
>> houses being built. One of them tells me much of the external woodwork was 'primed'
>> with whitewash rather than primer - we've had the soffits and bargeboards replaced this year,
You could have used the best undercoat and paint going, but the timber underneath was still green, if not wet.
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"One of them tells me much of the external woodwork was 'primed' with whitewash rather than primer..."
Maybe poor-quality wood was used, but modern wood primers tend to be water-based, which is often a good thing if the wood is a bit soft.
I hope when you replaced the soffits and bargeboards (and fascias?) you used PVCu.
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>> I hope when you replaced the soffits and bargeboards (and fascias?) you used PVCu.
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Too right.
And the man who owns the company that did it lives three doors up the road, he knows I'll be knocking on his door if the job ain't right. We got 5 quotes, the bottom 3, of which his was one, were all on a par, one was a couple of hundred quid more, and one quoted more just to do the garage than the bottom three wanted to do house and garage combined
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I realise I am a bit late to the party but you should fill the holes with polyfila and the use lining paper. Solves the old paste problem. Solves the uneven wall problem. Makes for a smoother finish. Anything else is just cutting corners.
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I've found that ready mixed fillers are too hard and too difficult to sand down. I prefer Polyfilla powder which you mix with water.
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>> I've found that ready mixed fillers are too hard and too difficult to sand down.
>> I prefer Polyfilla powder which you mix with water.
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Absolutely no problem for me when sanding down any fillers or plaster..
Unfortunately the product I use is no longer made as the company went bust.
I have three incredibly lightweight hand sanders that take sheets of Cintride.
Each loaded with a different grade.
I also have Cintride for Surform and I/2 sheet sander.
They give a surface like glass especially on epoxy resin.
I guess the product was too good or not well enough known.
The traditional trade of course still to glass paper :-(
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Automotive production paper, on a block with the vac nozzle close to.
Ted
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>> >> I've found that ready mixed fillers are too hard and too difficult to sand
>> down.
>> >> I prefer Polyfilla powder which you mix with water.
>> >>
>> Absolutely no problem for me when sanding down any fillers or plaster..
>> Unfortunately the product I use is no longer made as the company went bust.
>> I have three incredibly lightweight hand sanders that take sheets of Cintride.
I have an electric orbital sander, but the ready mixed filler I used was harder than the surrounding plaster and the surrounding plaster was sanded down leaving a hump where the filler was used.
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>> I have an electric orbital sander, but the ready mixed filler I used was harder
>> than the surrounding plaster and the surrounding plaster was sanded down leaving a hump where the filler was used.
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Sander is too brutal. I use the edge of a steel ruler to get things flat.
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>> >> I have an electric orbital sander, but the ready mixed filler I used was
>> harder
>> >> than the surrounding plaster and the surrounding plaster was sanded down leaving a hump
>> where the filler was used.
>> >>
>> Sander is too brutal. I use the edge of a steel ruler to get things
>> flat.
>>
I was talking about after the filer had dried. I was installing a new flush fitting telephone socket and a lot of plaster had fallen away when I made the hole for the metal back box. Because the wall is emulsioned I wanted the surface to be as flat as possible.
Last edited by: L'escargot on Sat 7 Sep 13 at 08:40
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>>the ready mixed filler I used was harder than the surrounding plaster
Tetrion ready mixed filler is like that, good stuff, but too good for most jobs, Polyfiller ready mixed is much easier to work with, as is Wilko's ready mixed.
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Agree... many quality brand fillers are far too hard to rub down. For years I've used Wickes own brand in these 12.5kg bags containing 8 individual sealed packets.
www.wickes.co.uk/invt/600111/?source=123_75
I too always use a steel edge to do the first fill so it isn't high. Once dried it will shrink a fraction and then a neat final skim will dry quickly and can be easily finished with fine sandpaper.
Last edited by: Fenlander on Sat 7 Sep 13 at 11:11
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Room done and dusted, new (well -new to us ) wardrobe put up yesterday evening - what's the technique for adjusting doors ?
They have those small sprung tee hinges with one screw that seems to hold the tee in and one that pushes away. I guess that in the event of a gap down the middle of the doors, its a case of unscrewing the 'out' whilst keeping enough pressure on the holding screw ?
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Are they the same as kitchen cupboard door hinges? In the case of those you use the "in and out" screw on top and bottom hinges to level the door up and down with the frame, match the height of the door next to it, and keep an even gap with the door next to it.
The "Holding" screw is to secure the hinge, but it goes in and out before you tighten it to keep the side (hinge side) gap between door and frame.
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They are. And as 'er indoors has pronounced herself happy with them the way they are, they will stay that way !
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Well that's a relief.
I'm a very slow DIYer and it's good to learn someone else too can take more than 2 months to decorate a room.
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When you factor in the time for her to pick the colour for the feature wall, choose and buy the appropriate bedding and accessories, change her mind about the colour, get some more accessories, do the room, then pick a carpet to fit, I'm surprised we got it done that quickly.
Me, could have done it in a weekend on my own :-)
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I have one room that is 12 years work in progress :)
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>> - what's the technique for adjusting doors ?
>> They have those small sprung tee hinges .....
www.wikihow.com/Adjust-Euro-Style-Cabinet-Hinges
And countless other suggestions from a google search
www.google.co.uk/webhp?nord=1#nord=1&q=adjusting+cupboard+hinges
Last edited by: VxFan on Mon 11 Nov 13 at 00:56
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DIY queries - CGNorwich
