I'm just assembling a small teak/aluminium patio table and even though it's pretty straight forward I've been left with two spring washers that don't appear anywhere on the assembly sheet, there are two sets of bolts, washers and nuts, one set attaches the wooden top to the upright column and the other the cast legs to the column bottom.
Now does the spring washer go between the regular washer and nut?
If so, how tight do I do the nut up? do I do it until the spring washer slightly flattens?
|
|
Under the nut as that it what you want to prevent turning. Seems a bit overkill on a table though - unless you are going to subject it to lots of vibration......!
|
>> unless you are going to subject it to lots of vibration......!
Someone mentioned KY jelly in another thread and what with the OP's moniker......................
|
|
Under the nut, and tighten just as you would if it wasn't there. Squash it or the joint will be loose.
|
|
OK thanks, as I said the two spring washers don't appear in the instructions so maybe they aren't really needed, but as I've got them then I'll probably use them and be done with it rather than having to disassemble it at a later stage to add them.
|
Spring washers are old hat. I doubt whether you'd find any on your car. The modern method is to tighten the bolt until it just starts to stretch. Sometimes the tightening procedure will be specified as tightening the bolt to a certain torque and then additionally turning it by a certain angle. However, since your table has a compressible material, namely wood, then the spring washer should go between the nut and the flat washer but you'll have to use your own judgement as to how tight you should tighten it. I would expect the spring washer to be flattened completely.
Here's more. www.boltscience.com/pages/nutorbolttightening.htm
I've no doubt that Number_Cruncher would be in his element on this subject.
|
>The modern method is to tighten the bolt until it just starts to stretch.
Yes and no.... some engine bolts (head bolts being a prime example) are stretch types. Most suspension bolts are not, but are prevented from unwinding by Ny-loc nuts (which makes their removal on rusty bolts without a windy gun a right PITA!).
|
>> >The modern method is to tighten the bolt until it just starts to stretch.
>>
>> Yes and no.... some engine bolts (head bolts being a prime example) are stretch types.
>> Most suspension bolts are not, but are prevented from unwinding by Ny-loc nuts (which makes
>> their removal on rusty bolts without a windy gun a right PITA!).
>>
as long as you are going to replace a nyloc nut and not re-use it (not recommended), I find a blowtorch makes the nylon soften and they come off easier (not easily tho!)
|
Spring washer position? - RichardW
