So I though this looks easy:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=udlENiipBCU
but the nuts on my value aren't nuts - looks like you need a special tool to loosen them. Seem likely?
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All my manual ones are nuts, you fiddling with a thermostatic valve?
Last edited by: VxFan on Fri 18 Mar 16 at 02:27
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>> All my manual ones are nuts, you fiddling with a thermostatic valve?
I'll try to take a photo...
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Should have said - yes, it has a thermostatic thing on top (which I've taken off), but I thought they were all the same underneath ie. the thermostat just saved you turning it by hand?
Last edited by: Focusless on Thu 17 Mar 16 at 18:33
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Just realised that's rubbish :)
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Looks like its got a nut on it to me, BUT If you have a leaking thermostatic valve its best replaced.
Last edited by: Zero on Thu 17 Mar 16 at 18:40
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>> Looks like its got a nut on it to me
Bit difficult to make out but looks like a nut but with protrusions in the middle of the straight edges specifically to prevent you getting a spanner to lock onto it.
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>> BUT If you have a leaking thermostatic valve its best replaced.
Plumber who came round this morning wasn't keen on doing anything that involved draining the system because it's on the ground floor. He was worried he'd end up with air in the system which would be tricky to get out, and possible boiler problems.
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>> Plumber who came round this morning wasn't keen on doing anything that involved draining the
>> system because it's on the ground floor. He was worried he'd end up with air
>> in the system which would be tricky to get out, and possible boiler problems.
Find a decedent plumber. If I can get air out of a difficult system, so should he be able to.
What he really meant was "I can't be assed"
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Plumber with a Range Rover?
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>> >> Find a decedent plumber.
>>
>> Plumber with a Range Rover?
Actually that reminds me of the chap we booked to prune our trees at the last house, who turned up in a V10 RS6 estate.
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Really? I've got a saw and a ladder somewhere...How hard can it be?
;-)
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>> Find a decedent plumber.
Hard enough finding a decent one :)
Yeah he is quite young but seems honest. Has said he's coming back on Tuesday (that's when I'm next at home) with a tool that clamps off the plastic supply pipes, which should allow him to do whatever needs doing without draining.
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>> Has said he's coming back on Tuesday
Have persuaded him to squeeze us tomorrow - excuse to stay at home :) (albeit working)
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>> >> Has said he's coming back on Tuesday
>>
>> Have persuaded him to squeeze us tomorrow - excuse to stay at home :) (albeit
>> working)
ah the ole "working at home" line
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....the internal part (dark plastic looking) surrounding the spindle is probably a replaceable gland, which, if you can get hold of one will normally be possible without turning anything off.
My TRVs are Drayton ones, and the part in question screws out via two indents in the top (a pair of long-nose pliers is useful) and the replacement slots over the spindle and screws back in.
Your picture looks similar, but not quite the same.
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>> Your picture looks similar, but not quite the same.
Yeah - only one indent :(
Last edited by: Focusless on Thu 17 Mar 16 at 18:46
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Often with a job like this is best to replace the valve or you end up bodging the job.My valves are similar with a microbore pipe system.
I didn't exspect the microbore lasting over thirty years and I still have the original Myson radiators.I did drain the system every two years and put corrosion inhibitor in.I haven't drained the system for about five years but still use inhibitor every year.
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Having just changed the bathroom into another bedroom, I had to move the radiator. I bought a new one, only £27 and fitted it in it's new position yesterday. I spray primed it and then sprayed it white. Tomorrow I will be fitting the valves ( new ), channeling the wall and plumbing it in to the old tails with 10mm Polypipe.
All so easy nowadays. My ole man, a lead and cast iron plumber, would have loved it !
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>> Having just changed the bathroom into another bedroom,
Bit hasty mate, at your age you can never have enough bathrooms nearby.
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....yeah, but with the pending new arrival, he'll need another bedroom......
;-)
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There's always a grid available....or the caravan loo.
What new arrival ? Have you seen a picture of my tum or something......if so, I assure you it's only beer !
Cheeky young whippersnapper !
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....you should stay away from the grids, or Jinny Greenteeth might get you.......
;-)
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I have in the past used DIY freezing kits. Close the valves at either end. Undo and empty radiator contents into bucket. Freeze the pipe to the valve that wants changing. When frozen remove the offending valve and olive. Clean the pipe and refit new olive and valve with some PTFE tape or sealant. Job done.
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>> I have in the past used DIY freezing kits. Close the valves at either end.
>> Undo and empty radiator contents into bucket. Freeze the pipe to the valve that wants
>> changing. When frozen remove the offending valve and olive. Clean the pipe and refit new
>> olive and valve with some PTFE tape or sealant. Job done.
Indeed, done same a few times, usually in winter, but its never a bad idea to drain down the system and refresh the inhibiter every few years, and replacing components is an ideal excuse to do it. In my case its usually leaking pump isolator valves. Or it was till I invested in a good pair.
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Funny you should mention that. Noticed my pump isolators were weeping a few days ago. Must source some of the better quality ones. May change pump as well as its over 20years old. will wait until weather picks up a bit though.
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>> Funny you should mention that. Noticed my pump isolators were weeping a few days ago.
>>
I had the same problem a few months ago.
Prodded the corrosion area and caused a leak so a very quick drain down of the system.
I did not fancy the job of fixing it so called in a plumber who had quite a challenge getting the pump and valves out.
It did not occur to me to ask for best isolator valves so a good tip.
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>> >> Funny you should mention that. Noticed my pump isolators were weeping a few days
>> ago.
>> >>
>> I had the same problem a few months ago.
>> Prodded the corrosion area and caused a leak so a very quick drain down of
>> the system.
>> I did not fancy the job of fixing it so called in a plumber who
>> had quite a challenge getting the pump and valves out.
>> It did not occur to me to ask for best isolator valves so a good
>> tip.
The normal brass ones corrode onto the pump body and refuse to undo from the pump, the only way to get them off is to take the pump and isolators out to wallop them on the bench. Which of course completely negates the idea of having pump isolators. Chrome plated is needed.
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>>The normal brass ones corrode onto the pump body and refuse to undo from the pump,
>> the only way to get them off is to take the pump and isolators out to wallop them on the bench.
>>Which of course completely negates the idea of having pump isolators.
>> Chrome plated is needed.
>>
That is exactly the state mine were in.
It was a no brainer to say replace the lot.
Reminder for me to check ALL isolator valves work freely.
Last time I found a valve spindle had snapped.
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repair (re-pack) leaking radiator valve - Zero
