Can any advise the location of the oil filter and type (screw can or paper element) and if it easy to remove. Also how many litres to fill and recommended grade.
Thanks in advance.
|
According to Autodata, the engine spec changed in 2003 hence the 2 different pieces of information below.
2003 to 2007 (85KW engine)
5.9 litres (with filter).
5W/30 semi synth oil that meets or exceeds CF/B3-96 classification.
1999 to 2003 (81KW engine)
6.4 litres (with filter).
5W/30 or 10W/30 semi synth oil that meets or exceeds CF/B3-96 classification.
No info about the type of filter or location though.
Last edited by: VxFan on Thu 26 Jul 12 at 00:40
|
|
6.4 litres - that's a big old sump!
|
|
9.8 litres on the Shogun (3.2 diesel) - pretty sure that's how they extended the service interval from 9 to 12.5k.
|
Eh, I'd follow the advice VX fan gives, have a shufti underneath to see where the oil filter resides.
Buy oil filter from a pain dealer quoting VIN number for correct fitment.
|
|
A bit late reply but thanks to all. The other halfs dad asked her if I could change the oil and having looked at it I dont want to get involved in such a modern car. It's ok on my 15 year old + car with no undertrays and small filters and I had reservations when she told me.
|
These Diesels don't seem to have the conventional metal can type screw on filter.
We have gone backwards with a paper element filter inside a black screw on cap with a plastic nut on the end, sizes like 27mm/32mm etc.
Not to be put off you just have to find it best thing to do is whip the tray off underneath and the top engine cover and get a lamp and look for the blighter, it's there somewhere.!!
Found this now with several cars from 2004- present day.
Don't pay £90.00 for a oil change when you can do it for a lot less. :-)
|
>> We have gone backwards with a paper element filter inside a black screw on cap
>> with a plastic nut on the end, sizes like 27mm/32mm etc.
I suppose it is less wasteful to replace a simple element and a couple of o-rings than it is to change the entire filter housing (canister) every year.
The VAG PD engines use the same system, and win full marks in my book by placing the filter housing neatly on the top of the engine, right at the front. If you have the right socket for the housing, removing the cap, changing the filter element and o-rings, and refitting the cap takes no more than two minutes.
The filter housing is the black circular cap just to the right of the dipstick in this pic. Couldn't be easier.
i85.photobucket.com/albums/k57/karlthekarter/1glowlocations.jpg
|
I prefer filter elements too. Much less messy to change them, as they are usually on the top of the engine and the oil drains *out* of them. Metal canisters were often underneath, and you could be fairly sure of a soaking in carcinogenic oil when you ripped them off, which could be a tricky business if it'd been overtightened previously. I remember having to hammer a large screwdriver through one once on a Fiesta, after giving up on straps and chains. That made a terrible mess.
But yeah, never be afraid of changing the oil on a modern car. The fundamentals haven't changed, no mater how much black plastic they clothe the engine in.
Follow the oil specs, have the right tools, spare sump washer and a good filter and you're away.
|
Toyota Avensis - 03 2.0 Oil Change 2.0 D4D - VxFan
