I went to Crete thirty-odd years ago and stayed in Chania overnight for an early morning strat to do the Samaria gorge walk. That’s a wonderful experience. Chania itself has a beautiful seafront but it was a busy town with a lot of traffic. It wasn’t the laid back Greece I would be looking for. I can’t believe it’s got better over the years in this respect.
A neighbour goes out every year (Covid excepted) for a month or so to a traditional village on the southern coast. That’s where I’d aim my research. It’s a beautiful island but even all those years ago it had areas of resort development that weren’t very Greek in character.
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