Wifey and I had our "honeymoon" there; to be precise, we stayed an extra night after a weekend of Harley-Davidson club business in Utrecht. Well worth a visit.
We enjoyed it; the citizens are very friendly, English is spoken or at least understood virtually everywhere; keep your eyes peeled for cyclists, they're well-mannered enough but can come at you from all directions. Agree about the canal trips, reasonably priced and very informative.
If you're a fervent non-smoker, it's probably not the ideal place for you though. Smoking tobacco is officially banned inside bars now but as you probably know there are some places where other herbs can be enjoyed inside, and some don't draw much of a distinction. Might make some of you grit your teeth but it was nice for once to be able to prop a bar up with a pint in one hand and a cigarette in the other.
Red light district is a must, wonderfully tacky. Do check out the "Condomerie"!
If you happen to go there in November, try to catch the St Nicholas Day parade, a wonderful carnival spectacle.
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