Just passed its MOT (50K miles), but noticed the front LH brake was binding, slightly. The wheel and calliper feel warm to the touch, but not hot. The RH side is cold.
Dismantled, wire brushed where the pads slide in the calliper and applied a very light amount of grease to the pads and calliper, although there was no evidence of any corrosion and they were moving freely.
Removed piston carrier, checked seal (OK) and pushed piston in and out a few times with no problem.
Removed slider pins, gave them a good clean and gave them a very fine smear of silicone grease.
The outside pad was more worn than the inner. The inner is clipped inside the piston and has a squealer (thin metal tab that touches the disc when the pad wears and produces a sound akin to running fingernails down a blackboard). The pads are original.
I assume the problem's something to do with the outside pad or carrier sticking, but I can't see what as everything's free.
It's got one of those almost impossible to fit, anti-rattle, wire clips fitted to the outside of the pad carrier.
The RH side shows no such problem.
Any suggestions?
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Looks like you’ve done a good job here . Might be an idea to do a fluid flush and change , if it’s not been done recently.
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I gave it a fluid flush a couple of weeks ago, just before the MOT.
Just back from a short run (2 miles) and it seems hotter than ever!
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If you jack up that corner, can you turn the wheel freely?
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>> If you jack up that corner, can you turn the wheel freely?
Reasonably so, there's drag from the diff. It just passed an MOT where they suggested the brake may be binding a little.
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Any chance of a slight warp or uneven thickness on the disc that side ?
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>> Any chance of a slight warp or uneven thickness on the disc that side ?
None that I can detect.
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You seem to have checked nearly everything, and if you are sure the piston is not sticking, then you may need to consider the flexible hose.
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>> You seem to have checked nearly everything, and if you are sure the piston is
>> not sticking, then you may need to consider the flexible hose.
Because I can push the piston back (without unscrewing the bleed nipple) with what seems to be the same force as the RH wheel I ruled that out.
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>> Is the wheel bearing OK?
No play detected. As stated in my OP, it's just passed an MOT.
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It’s possible the piston is sticking when the caliper gets hot . I’d renew it . They are not expensive.
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>> It’s possible the piston is sticking when the caliper gets hot . I’d renew it
>> . They are not expensive.
Why would that affect only one pad? Something's causing the outer pad to bear on the disc, but not affect the inner.
I'm going to remove the anti-rattle spring, although I can't see how it could be causing the problem.
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