As some of you will know, the Ford Ka is now 9 years old. Service plus MOT plus cost of work to get it through the MOT came to about £375, which, considering I haven’t spent anything on it in the past 12 months, seems fine to me.
However, looking at the first two items on the original “refusal” certificate (tinyurl.com/chpzew3), and looking at the list of advisories on the MOT certificate (granted after the re-test) (tinyurl.com/chls8u5), words like “corroded” occurred a little too often for comfort. And rust is coming through the paintwork on about half a dozen different places on the vehicle. And my friendly independent mechanic suggested that I get rid of the vehicle sooner rather than later, as it would probably cost the best part of £1000 to get it through the test next year - more than the car is worth.
Against this there are a few factors which mean that I am not in a hurry to get rid of it.
1) I like it. On the long drive home from the MOT station in Inverness, the car drove very nicely, and I enjoyed driving it.
2) Having owned it from new, I know its history, and while it does have a rust problem, other than that, it seems to be fine.
3) Over the next few years, the car will cost me nothing in depreciation. Were I to buy, for example, a new Ka, it would cost me at least £3000 in depreciation over next couple of years. And if I were to buy a 2nd hand vehicle, it would probably involve a fair amount of time (& time is money!) and a lot of miles of travelling in order to look at possible replacement vehicles.
So, realistically, the current vehicle probably has to go in the next 2 or 3 years, simply because the corrosion will soon become a major problem. But it doesn’t seem urgent at the moment. The question is really knowing how long to hold on and when to get rid of it.
|
|
As you say you`ve still got 2-3 years, so unless you plan to re-buy new, you have time on your side to keep your eyes open for any bargains that occasionally pop up! - when one does, act then!
|
We owned a 2001 Ford Ka for a while. Sold it about 8 years ago.
We happened to spot it at the workshop of a local caravan dealers (of all places) a few weeks ago. The guy was sorting it out in his spare time, doing the work essentially for free for his BiL.
From what I saw of it, it had more filler than metal, was welded up pretty much everywhere and needed all new parts in and around the filler cap. I hate to think how much all that would have cost if it wasn't been done on the cheap.
£1000 for repairs could be an opener. How's the engine doing? No point spending all that if the engine is past its best too. Spark plugs been out recently?
|
Changing the plugs on my sister's Ka remains the best example of a 10 minute job turning into an entire day of my amateur spannering career. And the end result was one plug replaced.
They are great cars to drive, but they do not age well.
|
Time to start splashing the old engine oil on the underside.
It won't stop it corroding, but it'll delay it.
|
Ka's of that age are rustbuckets. i wouldn't want to have an accident in it, its falling apart. Get rid now while it still has a 12 month ticket and has some value.
The new Ford Ka is very good indeed
|
>>more filler than metal, was welded up pretty much everywhere
That's what I'm afraid of.
>>How's the engine doing? No point spending all that if the engine is past its best too. Spark plugs been out recently?
Engine seems fine to me. Ours has the new Duratec one, not the old pushrod one. To the best of my knowledge, spark plugs were only a problem on the old one.
Last edited by: tyro on Mon 3 Sep 12 at 12:25
|
>>The question is really knowing how long to hold on and when to get rid of it.
Well, according to your mechanic you won't be keeping it beyond the next MOT.
So what's it worth today with 12months MOT, what's it worth in 12 months with no MOT?
If the difference doesn't bother you, drive it until it breaks or the MOT expires and then replace it. But I wouldn't spend any money on it at all. Not even spark plugs.
If the difference in value with or without MOT bothers you, then sell it now.
|
I'd probably look to run it now until the next MOT and then just bin it. As you say, that will "save" you £3000 this year anyway. Use the next 12 months to top up the piggy bank and / or find the best deal on its replacement. If that's the size of car you need / like I'd be looking at recent but "old" model Pandas if it was me. Some real bargains out there from what I can see and great little cars to drive too.
If you run the Ka another year and assuming you paid something like £5000 for it in the first place, divide that by 10 years and it doesn't owe you much at £500 a year ( or £9.62 a week ) ! Did what it said on the tin so to speak.
|
>>So what's it worth today with 12months MOT, what's it worth in 12 months with no MOT?
But of you trade it today for something new, you also have to factor in how much the new car will lose in that year as well!
So if Ka is worth £1k now and zero in a year, motoring has cost you £1k.
If you trade it and get a £7k car for £6k with trade in, and the new car is worth £4500 in a year, then it could be argued the new car has cost you £2.5k over the year?
I think..... but fighting man maths never was my strongpoint.....
|
If you try hard enough you can use man-maths to justify anything. The Ka is worth £1k now, and is going to cost £1k in a years time. Changing now saves you £1k in the future, and you'll have £1k in your pocket from the sale of the current one. That gives you £2k towards a new(er) one :-)
Even if an £8k car is worth nothing in 8 years, then at £1k a year depreciation you've saved £1k by getting a new car now ;-)
Note: all tic... the value of cars will go down. Your wallet is at risk if you go near a car showroom. please take independent advice...
|
|
I always like to make decisions based on facts Humph :-)
|
>> On the long drive home from the MOT station in Inverness
Last month I spent a week at the Hebridean end of the A82, where the salty sea air attacks cars like you wouldn't believe. I saw an '06 Discovery looking more like a twenty year old example, an '09 Punto with a rusted-through sump and non-existant exhaust, and my friend's 2CV which he took off the road a year ago had suffered so much rot the floor had fallen out and taken the seats with it.
Very heavy-duty Waxoyling seems to be the order of the day around there. Sounds like your Ka would benefit from the same, certainly before another winter season begins.
Last edited by: Dave_TDCi on Mon 3 Sep 12 at 19:11
|
I suspect if you are asking the question, then its likely time to get rid. If you buy another car with lots of life in it and run that until its uneconomic to repair, you will get your money out of it.
My wifes car cost her £8300 brand new, she has now had it 4 years and 43k and its only just run in. Another 4 years dont seem like a problem nor beyond that. Its actually very cost effective if you can get ten years out of a new car and id be inclined to spend £1k on a deposit for a new one rather than lash a rusty Ford together for another year.
|
|
I used to do all the waxoling,always made sure the wheel arches properly cleaned in winter and treated.The three VW Beetles I owned very littlle rust if you are prepared to make the effort.
|
Thanks for all those thoughts.
I think that it's a matter of actively starting to look now, and buying ASAP, but being aware that it might take several months to actually to find the right car to replace it with.
And, in the meantime, a little waxoyl.
Last edited by: tyro on Tue 4 Sep 12 at 14:42
|
Plenty of decent sub-Fiesta cars out there from £9k and under with good crash-worthiness and acceptable driving dynamics.
All depends on your own value judgement with the various factors.
ie. there's no right answer.
(Other than don't buy a Daewoo off of eBay)
|
Knowing when to let go - devonite
