The Legacy has picked up enough stone chips to the (metallic black) paintwork on the bonnet that its time to do something about repairing them.
Also, there's a single deeper chip to the windscreen pillar that has rust in it. Now IIRC ku-rust and products like it used to come with a warning that you couldn't paint over them afterwards. Mind, the last time I used this stuff was on my father's old Rover SD1!
What does the Forum recommend to reverse the rusting in the chip and stop it spreading such that I can touch up the spot afterwards?
The others are all small, quite flat, spots where only the outer black lacquer has been removed, exposing the off-white primer underneath. I'm reckoning on doing these with black touch up paint and polishing back to as smooth as finish as I can get once its dried fully. Any advice here?
EDIT: Apologies, just realised I should have posted this in Technical. Mods, any chance you could move it please?
Last edited by: Gromit on Fri 20 Jun 14 at 10:42
|
Funnily enough I've been doing a few bits on the 525 over the last couple of weeks. I had budgeted for three smart repairs on different panels but when I was quoted £250-£300 for the three I considered this too much as the smart guys do little more than very careful DIY with a spray can will achieve.
So far I've made good and sprayed a body colour rear bumper side strip and filled/painted a deep scratch plus dent on the lower wing panel behind the drivers front wheel between sill and bump strip.
This leaves a dent on one sill and, similar to you, an 8mm dia area on the driver's screen pillar where a tiny chip has been allowed to rust causing a spider edged blister.
Luckily the Halfords spray paint is a very good match for my paint but of course silver is a very easy colour to work with anyway.
For your bonnet chips I'd make sure you get any polish/grease out of the chips with strong squeezy solution and a good rinse. Then use a very small artist brush rather than the supplied touch up can brush which is often too large and blobby. I'd try with a couple of coats to "fill" the chip as near level as possible.
For the rusty one the way to avoid increasing the area of the repair too much is to scratch out the rust with a small sharp screwdriver then prime, finishing with the same chip paint method as the rest.
Last edited by: Fenlander on Fri 20 Jun 14 at 11:02
|
|
Black indelible felt tip. Works wonders.
|
|
What, even on Fenlander's silver BM.... :-)
|
|
Might be best avoided on that !
|
|
I'd remembered you mentioning black felt tip before, Humph. I'll certainly try it, but not directly onto the rusty spot!
|
>>>Black indelible felt tip. Works wonders.
Good grief... company car drivers!
|
Thanks for the tips - black felt-tips and otherwise!
I'd have this done by now only Gromit Jr decided to wash his toy cars Saturday morning, only he forgot to turn the tap off. Which we discovered when the overflow came downstairs via the light fittings :-(
Instead of touching up car, spent weekend removing waterlogged light fittings and drying out kitchen and sitting room as well as possible. Luckily ceilings stayed up and dried out (as far as I can see) except for water staining. Hopefully wooden floor that took the brunt of the leak in the sitting room won't warp much.
So, as well as repairing rust spots on cars, any experience of repairing water damaged ceilings, tiled and wooden floors (or coralling 2 year olds in a legal manner!) welcome :-)
|
>>>when the overflow came downstairs via the light fittings :-(
Hmmm... not good but sounds like you just got away with it.
Had that twice... Once in our upstairs flat I left the bath running and only realised when the downstairs couple knocked on the door and enquired if we were doing anything with water as it was dripping out of a light fitting. I said not that I know of but then remembered the bath in horror.
When they knew the location of the source the guy stabbed a sword he had to hand (strange but true) through the ceiling under the bath and water poured through the holes into his kitchen. They were very good about it and like yours the ceilings soon dried.
Next time I fitted a complete CH system into a large house we were renovating and forgot to solder one joint... which held for a good while until the circuit warmed and melted the flux seal. Two now uncoupled 15mm pipes gushing hot water full bore into the kitchen ceiling area. Again it all dried OK bar a repaint.
|
Subaru Legacy and Outback Petrol - Rust under stone chip damage to paintwork - repair - Fenlander
