Yesterday I had my first puncture in 13 years while out not far from home. The Venga has a temporary spare at least and I had the tools in the car to replace at the roadside, luckily in a layby. Put it on and went slowly to my indie tyre man and £87 later one new tyre.
He pointed out that the date on the temp tyre was 44/10 so at 15.5 years old it's past it's use by date.been disposed of. On the venga if the pucture is on the front (as mine was) I should have swapped a rear full size to the front and used the temp at the back.
Full size alloy with a very decent amount of tread on ebay in v good condition £75 inc postage.
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The boss gets most of ours when she visits the tip. I've told her to take a brush and sweep the screws out of the way before she parks by the skips.
I found a cross headed screw in one of my Outlander tyres on Friday. The tyre hasn't gone down at all since, so I've left it for now. I think I'll unscrew it this weekend and put a plug in. They want £25 now to mend punctures round here.
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I seem to attract screws! Don't mind so much if they're in the treaded part of the tire because that's fixable. It really annoys me when they're on the edge of a tire because then it's not fixable.
Had that happen on newish tires more than once.
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>>..... It really annoys me when they're on the edge of a tire because then it's not fixable...>>
I would dispute the reason often given.....
'The sidewall constantly bends and absorbs shocks, which prevents patches from maintaining a seal.'
I don't see why a typical 4cm tyre repair patch covering what would be a tiny hole can't flex with the tyre. A bicycle inner tube repair patch manages to do this with probably more flexion and three times the pressure. I reckon it's dogma from the tyre manufacturers, but willing to consider a more convincing argument.
Last year I had to buy two new tyres for Mrs F's Peugeot 2008 because they failed the MoT due to 'cuts'. It wasn't too painful as they had done 34,000 miles but they still had at least 3mm tread. If I'd known about this stuff I'd have applied it and resubmitted it for testing....
tinyurl.com/2ubfp85p
Pease use www.tinyurl.com or similar to shorten long links, which otherwise mash up the page layout. And also check your link works - it didn't, but I managed to work out what you were after and have fixed it above! :-) smokie
Last edited by: smokie on Fri 27 Mar 26 at 18:07
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It really annoys me when they're on the edge of a tire because then it's not fixable...>>
I would dispute the reason often given.....
It's your life John. or maybe that of Mrs F..
What if the tyre pops on a bad rainy day and Mrs F can't control the car enough and God Forbid has a serious prang. I would like to think that her life is woeth more than an £11.99 tube of gunk.
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My ebay tyre and wheel arrived this afternoon. Full size spare with a decent tyre on it and nice and clean too. and 5mm of tread. All for £75.00 inc postage.
Oddly enough the puncture was at the entrance to the tip....
Last edited by: ORB>> on Fri 27 Mar 26 at 17:37
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>> What if the tyre pops on a bad rainy day and Mrs F can't control
>> the car enough and God Forbid has a serious prang>>
It just wouldn't go 'pop', ORB. Modern tyres at such low pressures don't explode like 120psi flimsy bike tyres or the occasional 'blow out' once seen with high pressured old overheated retreads for trucks. If the repair failed it would just slowly deflate, which I would probably notice before she did, as I like to keep a regular check on tyres. And I would have put them on the rear, where it would have to be almost flat before noticeable by many drivers.
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Some years back I hit a fairly major pothole and looked at teh tyre etc after and all looked OK.
Three days later at speed on the M25 the tyre did just go pop, instant deflation.
Tuned out I'd "D'"d the alloy wheel - slightly flattened the circle presumably where I went into the pothole, and the beading hung onto the rim for a few hundred miles before giving up.
At the time I thought they were lovely wheels, Irmscher graphite and silver alloys on an Omega MV6 (and very expensive to replace!!). I don't usually get excited over any car bits so SWMBO laughed at me when I said what nice wheels they were - then by pure coincidence not a week later someone came over to me in a garage and commented how nice they were, which put her in her place!! :-) (They were only what came with the car... i114.photobucket.com/albums/n271/fastavant/dcd3_12.jpg)
I still have the old one on my garage wall. The flattening isn't that noticeable.
Last edited by: smokie on Sat 28 Mar 26 at 12:30
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<< It just wouldn't go 'pop', >>
I have once witnessed a sudden rear blowout, which looked like a minor explosion, just after an Astra (I think it was) overtook me on an autobahn probably doing 80-90. The driver controlled the car without apparent difficulty and I continued slightly shaken.
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>> << It just wouldn't go 'pop', >>
>>
>> I have once witnessed a sudden rear blowout, which looked like a minor explosion, just
>> after an Astra (I think it was) overtook me on an autobahn probably doing 80-90.
>> The driver controlled the car without apparent difficulty and I continued slightly shaken.
>>
Back in '91 I was heading west on the M4 around Swindon when the nearside rear blew on the Escort we had then. I was in the middle lane having just overtaken a truck at about 80mph and the car did two full 360's, missing the central barrier by inches and ending up on the nearside edge of the hard shoulder. Very luckily it was just after 6am on a Sunday with hardly any traffic, had it been at a busier time it would have been a very serious crash.
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>> Tyre explosions can be fatal.
>> news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/scotland/edinburgh_and_east/8600833.stm
>>
Yes, I remember this fluke tragedy from years ago and wondering precisely what her injuries were and why she died. I could only guess at an acute intracranial bleed as her head was probably only inches away.
Clearly tyres can occasionally suddenly 'blow' if the carcass has been weakened and is bulging, but I still contend not from the failure of a tiny pin-hole puncture repair in an otherwise healthy correctly pressurised tyre.
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>>
>>
>> tinyurl.com/2ubfp85p
>>
>> Pease use www.tinyurl.com or similar to shorten long links, which otherwise mash up the
>> page layout. And also check your link works - it didn't, but I managed to
>> work out what you were after and have fixed it above! :-) smokie
>>
I clicked on the tinyurl link and got a very long message of gibberish, which said the page was blocked.
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Well it works for me, tried and tested before and after posting! And from two different devices!! :-)
So if it's me, apols, but maybe you have an ad blocker of some sort?
Copy/paste some of the error here an I'll try to assist... or just drop it into AI
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Please don't worry. It's probably my ad blocker.
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"A bicycle inner tube repair patch manages to do this with probably more flexion and three times the pressure."
I am completely gobsmacked at how one can compare a non structural thin inner tube, with a structural load bearing tyre.
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>> I am completely gobsmacked at how one can compare a non structural thin inner tube, with a structural load bearing tyre. >>
Well, they are certainly structurally different, but I don't think that should affect the adhesion characteristics much ? Anyway, aren't tiny punctures fixed with a plug any more ? I've certainly seen the end of a plug in a tyre not many years ago ?
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>> >> I am completely gobsmacked at how one can compare a non structural thin inner
>> tube, with a structural load bearing tyre. >>
>>
>> Well, they are certainly structurally different, but I don't think that should affect the adhesion
>> characteristics much ?
Nothing to do with adhesion, its to do with structural integrity. Plugs are allowed in certain parts of the tyre, as long as the hole is smaller than 6mm. As for side walls
n the UK, tyre repair plugs (specifically external "string" or "rope" repairs) are illegal or non-compliant with British Standard BSAU159 when used on the sidewall, within 25mm of the edge,
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>> I am completely gobsmacked at how one can compare a non structural thin inner tube,
>> with a structural load bearing tyre.>>
I think the inner tube is just as 'structural' as the tyre it supports, flexibly cushioning it from the unyielding inflexible (unless you hit a sharp-edged pothole!) rim.
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>> I think the inner tube is just as 'structural' as the tyre it supports,
Not even remotely. If the tyre wasnt there its as structually sound as a toothpaste tube. It would compress and split againts the rim, if it didnt roll off first.
Last edited by: Zero on Sat 28 Mar 26 at 12:41
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Think the bottom line is don't scrimp on tyres, there our only point of contact with the road .
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I've been very lucky so far, having only suffered one puncture in almost 24 years of ownership of my modest Japanese limousine.
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Which kind of proves that the importance some drivers attach to having a spare wheel is kind of misplaced. Had one slow puncture in around twenty years which repaired by AA on the driveway.
Most breakdowns are in fact due to flat batteries and nobody carries a spare battery around.
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>> Which kind of proves that the importance some drivers attach to having a spare wheel
>> is kind of misplaced. Had one slow puncture in around twenty years which repaired by
>> AA on the driveway.
>>
>> Most breakdowns are in fact due to flat batteries and nobody carries a spare battery
>> around.
>>
Flat batteries are user error. Punctures can happen to anyone and I've had more than one in the last two decades and was thankful for a spare.
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“Flat batteries are user error“
Are they?
My experience is that they ar perfectly fine in the morning and dead as a doornail
in the evening. Especially applies to diesels. No prior warning.
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In 60 years / 750k miles of motoring, I have never ever had a "sudden fine in the morning, dead in the evening" battery failure. All of them have given warning signs before hand.
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So you have been lucky then. I hope your luck lasts.
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>> So you have been lucky then. I hope your luck lasts.
60 years / 750k miles of motoring?
Thats not luck, thats evidence
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>> “Flat batteries are user error“
>>
>> Are they?
>>
>> My experience is that they ar perfectly fine in the morning and dead as a
>> doornail
>> in the evening. Especially applies to diesels. No prior warning.
>>
Same here 2 last year, both diesels. Both just past the 5 year warranty on the battery, I was informed there were no warning signs.
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I have had a fine in the evening dead in the morning battery failure in a diesel. That was only because the VW Touran had nasty habit of putting on the brake lights when the overnight temp dropped below about 6c
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>> My experience is that they ar perfectly fine in the morning and dead as a doornail in the evening. Especially applies to diesels. No prior warning. >>
Not my experience at all. The battery in my Pug diesel lasted for 12 years before it began to sound a little tired starting the car in winter. Its replacement is still fine 6 years later.
I suppose a battery could develop a sudden internal fault, or the car's electronics could too, to give that morning/evening effect, but without that I think a battery will tire gradually.
Last edited by: Andrew-T on Sat 28 Mar 26 at 22:55
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It might not be your experience but a quick Google would have revealed it is far from
Uncommon
Pwww.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=16912
Last edited by: CGNorwich on Sun 29 Mar 26 at 08:34
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>> It might not be your experience but a quick Google would have revealed it is far from uncommon
>> www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=16912 >>
Good grief - that's nearly 23 years ago !! Anyway I didn't suggest it didn't happen, only that a typical battery dies from use and old age.
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I thought I'd read years ago that rapid failure can be because the plates disintegrate over time into a heap of metallic powder on the floor of the battery, which eventually touches what's left of the cells and causes an instant discharge. Likely my recollection is bad.
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>> I thought I'd read years ago that rapid failure can be because the plates disintegrate over time into a heap of metallic powder on the floor of the battery, which eventually touches what's left of the cells and causes an instant discharge. Likely my recollection is bad.>>
No, your recollection is good....
ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/what-causes-a-car-battery-to-die-quickly/
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>> I thought I'd read years ago that rapid failure can be because the plates disintegrate
>> over time into a heap of metallic powder on the floor of the battery, which
>> eventually touches what's left of the cells and causes an instant discharge.
Not a problem on the Beemer with its AGM battery.
Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) car batteries are high-performance, sealed, maintenance-free lead-acid batteries designed for modern vehicles with high power demands, such as those with start-stop technology, extensive electronics, or regenerative braking. They use glass mats to absorb the electrolyte, preventing spills and allowing faster charging and longer life compared to standard
Got an AGM in the caravan as well
Last edited by: Zero on Sun 29 Mar 26 at 20:14
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My Ampera had an AGM, I thought that was partly due to it being inside the cabin, under the back seat (so less likely to spill in the event of a shunt)
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They generally don't need venting when mounted inboard unlike most standard lead acid batteries. They're sealed and of VRLA design so don't give off gases when being charged.
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Which kind of proves that the importance some drivers attach to having a spare wheels kind of misplaced.
Most breakdowns are in fact due to flat batteries and nobody carries a spare battery
around.
To each their own. My puncture was not reparable so an inflation kit would not have done the trick.
SWMBO is a specialist Hospital doctor (other important jobs available too) Sometimes it's Cambridge or Huntingdon or Hammersmith. Even though if going to one of the above I generally allow an extra hour so that she'll be on time depending on time and place a puncture could be unfortunate and a wheel change because we have spare wheels in each car is useful to us and we wouldn't get extorted for a tyre if far from home. Ditto for when we go to Europe. with the Korando.
For a moderate cost we're happy.
Last edited by: ORB>> on Sat 28 Mar 26 at 19:14
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Had one puncture in the last 8 years 113k miles. Happened on the M3 35 miles away from home, tyre pressure warning chimed, pressure dropped to zero in 1 mile. Drove home at 50mph, drove to tyre place next morning.
Run flats.
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... and yet B'ham daughter has had two screw punctures (repairable, in the same tyre in about 4 months. I remember getting a new tyre after a puncture in the Mondeo, and having to get another one about 2 days later due to another puncture.
There is an element of(bad) luck involved...
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>> I don't see why a typical 4cm tyre repair patch covering what would be a
>> tiny hole can't flex with the tyre. A bicycle inner tube repair patch manages to
>> do this with probably more flexion and three times the pressure. I reckon it's dogma
>> from the tyre manufacturers, but willing to consider a more convincing argument.
>> Last year I had to buy two new tyres for Mrs F's Peugeot 2008 because
>> they failed the MoT due to 'cuts'. It wasn't too painful as they had done
>> 34,000 miles but they still had at least 3mm tread. If I'd known about this
>> stuff I'd have applied it and resubmitted it for testing....
>>
>>
>> tinyurl.com/2ubfp85p
>>
The sidewall is the weakest part of the tyre in the sense it absorbs the most load, has the most work to do. It is also the thinnest part of the tyre.
Limits on the damage allowed on sidewalls are strict for a reason.
I'd stay well away from any Chinese billy bodger glue from ebay.
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I think we should all remember John F was the guy who decided to 'gap' his iridium plugs!
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>> I think we should all remember John F was the guy who decided to 'gap'
>> his iridium plugs!
>>
:) ....and the same guy that insisted air and pollen filters never need replacing ( back on the old hj site)
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I have a space saver spare wheel and a jump starter in each car.
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>> >> I think we should all remember John F was the guy who decided to
>> 'gap' his iridium plugs! >>
I live and learn! It would have been possible had I not inserted the correct thickness feeler between the electrodes while 'gapping'. I had not realised how fragile the tiny central electrode is - a retrograde step IMHO, though clearly not for the plug makers. I wonder how often these new-fangled pricy little iridium tips disintegrate and cause cylinder damage with resulting increased oil consumption before they get blown out of the exhaust ports?
>> :) ....and the same guy that insisted air and pollen filters never need replacing (back on the old hj site)>>
I didn't 'insist', I just never thought it necessary and described my own personal maintenance practice of cleaning them IIRC. I do not presume to 'insist' or 'advise' as I have no automotive mechanical qualifications. The ones on our old Focus lasted 21yrs and over 160,000 miles with the occasional clean. My 1980 TR7's air filter is the original. I cleaned the one in Mrs F's 6yr old Peugeot last year - there was hardly any dirt. There's so much surface area that they only seem to get dirty in the one small area of the most direct air flow.
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I'm sure the basic design of a spark plug could be modified once there was no more lead in petrol, causing build-up of litharge which needed to be cleaned off periodically ?
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KIA Venga - First Puncture in 13 years - Manatee
