When I first got this, the clutch pedal was grabby. As it was released the pedal would only come up in 5mm steps. So I put on a new clutch cable and everything was rosy.
Then after a few weeks it returned. So I added some light oil to the pedal pivot and the problem was solved again. But once again it returned, so this time I took the pivot out, inspected it, added some light grease, as well as to the 'ball joint' on the end of the cable, and re-installed. This time it solved the problem for about a day.
So what's the verdict from all you knowledgable one? Is it the clutch release bearing not sliding smoothly on the input shaft?
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Is there any degree of choice in the routing of the cable? Is it possible that the cable was badly routed, and in replacing it, you've copied the incorrect routing?
It may be worth slipping the cable off the release fork, and seeing if the release fork itself is free to move. Some Pidgit 205s used to have an odd bearing on the release fork which could sieze up - thankfully, you could repair this from the outside of the gearbox.
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Is it heat related? only when cold or only when warm?
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Discussion here (admittedly different symptoms) mentions cable routing:
briskoda.net/forums/topic/211428-felicia-clutch-cable-route/
It's one of the few things that didn't break or rust throught on the Felicia we used to have.... so I don't have any first hand info.
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It seemed to be originally heat related, in that it was ok for a few miles.
The routing is ok, as it's LHD it just has one gentle 90deg turn to the gearbox.
I thought about lubing the cable, but it's plastic coated wire so thought it may be worse if the oil affects the plastic.
I tried to check where the arm pivots in the bell housing. There didn't seem to be any accessible bearing (although there must be something in there), but I wasn't strong enough to actually move the arm. I may take a closer examination over xmas.
Yeah, it's a bit rusty. In fact, there isn't a single panel on the whole car that doesn't have severe rust - even the roof around the aerial. The arches have completely gone, and there are holes nearly right through the door skins. And the rear quarters have rotted right through behind the rear wheels. But surprisingly the main chassis members and sills are full of wax and still intact, although the end of one of the sills rusted through where the big grommet is. I pop riveted a piece of ally over the hole to stop the sill filling with crap.
But as a winter car it works well. It does 41mpg, has a good heater and heated seats, diddy cheap tyres, and costs pennies to tax and insure (3rd party only). Ha, the girl at the insurance co. asked wanted fire and theft. I said the chance of it catching alight is pretty slim, and the increased premium for just one year is more than the possible theft payout minus the excess. Not least that it's very unlikely anyone will actually steal it. I never lock it as the central locking is broken and the boot lock jammed, so I had to rig it so it wouldn't lock anyway.
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>>but I wasn't strong enough to actually move the arm
Usually, you can feel a bit of free movement in the arm - enough to convince you that the arm is in fact free to move. Only those built like Geoff Capes will be able to operate the clutch by hand from the release lever on the outside of the gearbox.
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Skoda Felicia - 00 1.6 Grabby clutch pedal - Number_Cruncher
